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| Our group of adventurers at Zvartnots Temple, Armenia |
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Flag of Armenia
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After
crossing the border at Bavra, we arrived in Armenia. We had no problem entering
Armenia. Inga, a motherly Armenian tour guide, welcomed us warmly. She
took us on a long journey down south to Yerevan for a delicious dinner amidst a
happy atmosphere.
My first exposure to Armenia was bright lights, warm
ambiance, hot music and intriguing food. In Yerevan,
capital of Armenia, as we entered a restaurant, there was a big group of teachers eating and chatting
joyously away at another table. They were celebrating Teachers’ Day. As we waited for our food
to be served, they started dancing. This got some of our members on their feet too. What an exciting welcome to Armenia.
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| Our members waiting for food to be served. In the background, local teachers celebrating Teacher's Day |
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| Local teachers dancing happily away |
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| Our member (Chai Yee) joining in the lively dancing |
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| An intriguing dish: a lavash (Armenian bread) wrap |
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| Beef and vegetables inside a lavash wrap |
Armenia is situated along the route of the Great Silk road. It is a landlocked country of rugged mountains and extinct volcanoes. Smallest ot the former Soviet republics, it is bound by Georgia in the north, Azerbaijan on the east, Iran on the south and Turkey on the west.
In 1922, the Soviets formed the Transcaucasian, combining Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan which became part of the USSR. Armenia became an independent republic in 1991.
Armenia is home to astounding world heritage sites,
ancient monasteries and friendly people.
It has 98.1% Armenians; the rest are Yezidis, Russians, Assyrians, Ukrainians,
Kurds and Greeks.
Their language is Armenian and their religion Christianity (Armenian Apostolic Church). Thus religion has a strong influence on their everyday life.
Their language is Armenian and their religion Christianity (Armenian Apostolic Church). Thus religion has a strong influence on their everyday life.
Agricultural work occupies 45% of the territory of
the country with 20% dealing with cultivation and 25% with grazing. The main
agricultural products are cucurbita, potatoes, wheat, grapevine, sugar
beet, cotton, tobacco and tea. Stockbreeders are specialised in cattle and in
the mountainous regions, they breed sheep. All these are reflected in the
Armenian cuisine.
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Map of Armenia, showing some of the places we visited
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Our tour of Armenia started with a city tour of Yerevan and Echmiadzin. From there, we moved to Khor Virap near Mt Ararat, and Noravank near Yeghegnadzor and then back to Yerevan. Next day, we drove to Garni and Geghard and then back to Yerevan.
Finally we moved north-east to the Sadakhlo Border passing through Lake Sevan to re-enter Georgia. From Tbilisi in Georgia, we flew back to Kuala Lumpur via Almaty, Kazakhstan.
HIGHTLIGHTS
Yerevan
In Yerevan, we visited the ruins of Zvartnots Temple (Group photo in the 1st picture above) and the museum near it. The Zvartnots Temple (constructed in the 7th century) , is one of the brightest landmarks of medieval Armenian architecture. Unfortunately it is in ruins due to an earthquake in the 10th century. We spent some time exploring the ruins of Zvartnots Temple which are a World Heritage Site.
In Yerevan, we visited the ruins of Zvartnots Temple (Group photo in the 1st picture above) and the museum near it. The Zvartnots Temple (constructed in the 7th century) , is one of the brightest landmarks of medieval Armenian architecture. Unfortunately it is in ruins due to an earthquake in the 10th century. We spent some time exploring the ruins of Zvartnots Temple which are a World Heritage Site.
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| Seong Chen and Kim Lun looking regal in front of Zvartnots Temple |
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| Kala next to pillars of Zvartnots Temple |
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| Zvartnots ruins: eagle emblem symbolises freedom |
We visited the museum next to the Temple. The special architecture
and the history of how the Temple was constructed enthralled our members.
What was most compelling was that it was a central-plan aisled tetra-conch (circular and multi-tiered) building!
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| Museum: Chart showing how the Temple was constructed |
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| In Museum: Members marvelling at the model of the multi-tiered circular Zvartnots Temple |
Christianity was adopted as a state religion in Armenia in 301. The Church of Saint Hripsime, founded in 618, was another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Church was named after Saint Hripsime, a Roman beauty who spurned the emperor’s marriage proposal and fled to Armenia. In Armenia, she also rejected Armenian King’s proposal and so was tortured and killed. The Church was built in the site where she died.
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| Inside the Church of St Hripsime: a service in progress |
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| Outside the Church of St Hripsime (7th century) |
Museum of History of Armenia
After lunch, we visited the massive Museum of History of Armenia. A cheerful young guide gave us a comprehensive account of the history of Armenia. It was a pity we could not take photos of the wide range of exhibits inside.
After lunch, we visited the massive Museum of History of Armenia. A cheerful young guide gave us a comprehensive account of the history of Armenia. It was a pity we could not take photos of the wide range of exhibits inside.
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| Museum of History of Armenia |
Etchmiadzin Cathedral
Our last visit of the day was the Etchmiadzin Cathedral
(Vagharshapat), the mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church. It was the
first cathedral built in ancient Armenia and is considered the oldest cathedral
in the world. Built by Armenia’s patron saint, Gregory the Illuminator, it was
listed as a World Heritage Site in 2000.
I was intrigued by the different types of cross stones (khachkar) around
the buildings, each of different motifs, some with pomegranates and others with
eagles.
It was a Sunday. There were many visitors and friendly school children. I felt young at heart as we posed for photos.
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| Friendly local schoolchildren |
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| With local school children near the Cathedral |
The Cathedral was undergoing renovation, but we were allowed to
enter it. Inside the church, I noticed that the paintings were
different from those in Georgia, with the faces painted clearly. In one room, I
was awed by many sacred items, like cross, robes, sceptre, etc which were used by priests.
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Paintings inside with faces painted clearly
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| With locals |
Armenians revered the Etchmiadzin Cathedral. One example is from an Italian historian and traveller, Luigi Villari who in 1906, wrote:
“During every critical phase of their history, the
Armenians have looked at Etchmiadzin for guidance, and to the Church as their
beacon and hope. A visit to Etchmiadzin enables us to understand the tenacity
of this people and their devotion to their faith better than a whole library of
books.”
Birthday Celebration
That day happened to be Jan's birthday. We had a joyous time, with delicious local cuisine, red wine, jovial songs and birthday wishes.
Shopping in the Bazaar
Before
dinner, we went shopping for souvenirs in the local bazaar. I found the obsidian (a volcanic glass, in fiery shades of
brown, black or blood red) jewellery very alluring.
Birthday Celebration
That day happened to be Jan's birthday. We had a joyous time, with delicious local cuisine, red wine, jovial songs and birthday wishes.
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| Jan with super large candles on her birthday cake and the group singing a Beetles signature song |
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| Jan cutting her birthday cake with sister Christine looking on |
Khor
Virap Monastery
Next day, after breakfast, we drove through Ararat
region to visit Khor Virap Monastery, located on the slopes of biblical Mt
Ararat. Noah's Ark is said to have landed on Mt Ararat. We were ecstatic to capture it.
Mt Ararat is a snow-capped and dormant compound volcano in Turkey. It consists of 2 major volcanic cones: Greater Ararat, the highest peak (5,137m) in Turkey and little Ararat (3,896m).
Mt Ararat is a snow-capped and dormant compound volcano in Turkey. It consists of 2 major volcanic cones: Greater Ararat, the highest peak (5,137m) in Turkey and little Ararat (3,896m).
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| Khor Virap Monastery against the the mystical Mt Ararat |
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| Pretty maids in a row with Little Ararat (left) and Greater Ararat (right) |
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| All of us want to have a memorable shot of Mt Ararat even though it was against the sun |
Khor Virap Monastery, with its unique architecture, is the place of pilgrimage and one of the most worshiped in Armenia and the holy site for the Armenian Apostolic Church.
It was erected in the 6th-7th centuries
above the dungeon where St Gregory the Illuminator was kept for disseminating
Christianity until Tsar Trdat decided to adopt the religion. The dungeon where
the holy elder was tortured used to be the tsar’s dungeon (“Khor Virap” – “deep
pit”)
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| Khor Virap Monastery |
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| Inside Khor Virap Monastery |
Noravank
Monastery
We continued journey to 13th century Noravank
Monastery, my favourite. The 14th century 2-storey St Astvatsatsin (Holy
Mother of God) church is in the centre of the complex. This church has narrow steep stone-made staircase from two corners that leads to the door on the second floor. The intricate bas-reliefs outside the church are the works of talented Momik Vardpet, Armenian miniature painter, sculptor and architect.
Climbing up the stairs was not easy - I could manage the lower rungs only, but others managed to climb higher, especially Chee Hong who reached the top. This shows how difficult it is to enter the Church of God.
Climbing up the stairs was not easy - I could manage the lower rungs only, but others managed to climb higher, especially Chee Hong who reached the top. This shows how difficult it is to enter the Church of God.
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| Noravank Monastery against the blue sky and rugged mountains |
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| Noravank Monastery: On the left are some khachkars (cross stones) carved by Momik and his students  Exquisitely carved khachars (cross stones) by Momik Verdpet |
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| Tour leader, Chee Hong, at the entrance to the church on the second floor |
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| Noravank Monastery showing outstanding bas-reliefs With Jan (left) and Inga, our tour guide (centre) |
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| Our guys sitting on the steep narrow stairs |
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| Our ladies standing on the steep narrow stairs |
Areni Winery
A visit to the Areni Winery made everyone cheery and merry. We were feted to different types of Armenian Wine – on the house. Some of us bought intricately-embroidered table mats etc on sale there, while still in that happy mood.
A visit to the Areni Winery made everyone cheery and merry. We were feted to different types of Armenian Wine – on the house. Some of us bought intricately-embroidered table mats etc on sale there, while still in that happy mood.
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| Pretty faces at the winery Photo: Josephine |
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| A local lady explaining the various types of Armenian wine |
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| Souvenirs on sale |
Megerian Carpet Factory
We had an authentic Armenian meal organised by the Megerian Carpet
Factory. After dinner, Eddie, an Armenian volunteer from New York, took us on a
conducted tour of the factory, pausing at each carpet to relate amazing stories
or anecdotes about it.
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| Variety of organic dyes and threads for weaving the carpets |
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| Eddie (Armenian volunteer born in New York) explaining how carpets were weaved, from beginning to finished product |
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| Zara explaining double knots in the fine art of carpet-weaving |
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| A carpet cut in half by a mother for her 2 daughters who survived the genocide. The girls met in New York, were reunited and the carpet was reunited too |
Next day, we drove through picturesque Avan Canyon, passing through exotic-looking gorges and viewed the Geghard Monastery and the pagan Garni Architectural Complex, both near each other.
Geghard Monastery
Geghard, a medieval monastery (UNESCO World Heritage Site), is partially carved out of the adjacent mountain, surrounded by cliffs. It was so picturesque that our ladies could not conceal our excitement in taking a photo with it from afar.
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| Ladies with picturesque Geghard Monastery in the background |
There were churches and tombs inside,
mostly carved into the rock. We were totally engrossed in viewing the
columns, chapel, roof, cross stones, carved animals, pomegranates and grapes
all intricately carved.
In one of the caves, some Armenian Gospel
singers from Yerevan sang for us. Their singing reverberated in the building that
has natural acoustics.
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| Chapel |
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| Roof with intricate designs |
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| Cross stones, beautifully carved |
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| cross stones of different designs |
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Big column
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| Pomegranates and grapes designs |
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| The Choir from Yerevan singing harmoniously. Their clothes have pomegranates and grapes design |
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| Our group with the choir from Yerevan Photo: Lau Chee Hong |
Garni Architectural Complex
This complex was the summer Palace of Armenian kings. It was a
fortress in the 3rd century BC and a heathen temple in the 1st century AD. It
is the only standing Greco-Roman building in Armenia.
We visited the ruins of a King's bath (1st century) next to the temple.
It consisted of 3 rooms with hot, warm and cold water. Multicoloured
mosaics of fish, Gods and other mythological creatures decorated the floor.
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| Garni Architectural Complex: with the 24-column Greco-Roman style temple in the centre of the fortress |
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| The King's bath: this room shows water flows through the heated stones which produced steam. |
Matenadaran
Sensing our interest in museums, Inga took us to the Matenadaran,
a most worthwhile visit. Established in 1959, the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of
Ancient Manuscripts (Matenadarn), was a great eye-opener.
This museum has the world's richest depositories of medieval
manuscripts and books which include theology, philosophy, history, medicine,
literature, art history and cosmography in Armenian and other languages.
Armenian is one of the most ancient of existing languages. In 405,
the Armenian Alphabet composed of 36 letters, was created by the scientist,
Monk Mesrop Mashtots, whose name was used for the Matenadaran.
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| Armenian Alphabet (from a Guidebook of Armenia) |
We enjoyed looking through some of the exhibits: the heaviest book (28
kg), the lightest book (19 g), Armenian numbers and alphabets, first
manuscript made from parchment and animal skin and many more. They gave us an insight to Armenian culture and
history.
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| Matenadaran: entrance |
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| Heaviest book and lightest book (resting on the heaviest book on the right) |
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| Armenian Numbers from 1 to 9 (left) and so on |
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| Gospel of Echmiadzin, 989 Ivory binding |
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| The bible decorated with paintings: 5th century |
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| Geographical map 12 - 15th century |
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| Illustrated books on music: Singers with musical instruments 13-14th century |
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| Tamil manuscript on palm leaves Photo: Kala |
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| With Joanne, linguist, our guide at the Matenadaran who explained the exhibits very well |
Market
We loved markets. Inga obligingly took us to the local market for
some shopping. We were spoilt for choice at one section that had dried
fruits neatly packed as gifts.
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| Market with neatly packed dried fruits |
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| Local people buying foodstuff |
On our last day in Armenia, we departed for Sadakhlo border. En
route, we passed through Lake Sevan and Sevan Monastery but could not stop for
a visit because of poor weather.
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| Sevan Monastery and Lake Sevan |
We then travelled long distances, passing through scenic vegetation,
a long tunnel, and forest, but the weather did not permit us to take good photos.
Haghpat Monastery
There were splendid khachkars (cross stones) of 11-13th centuries, many showing ornamentation, of stylized motifs, squares or human figures.
Finally we arrived at Haghpat Monastery (10-13th century),
a medieval monastery complex, UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was founded
by Queen Khosrovanuysh, wife of the Bagratid King Ashot 111, probably in
976.
There were splendid khachkars (cross stones) of 11-13th centuries, many showing ornamentation, of stylized motifs, squares or human figures.
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| The wall around the Monastery |
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| Exterior of the Monastery |
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| A very detailed account of Haghpat Monastery
Pictures below show the interior of the
Monastery: Cross stones, roof and oneexceptional cross stone with Jesus Christ on it.
   
In one section, the Book Depository or
Library, we saw many buried jars. Interestingly, the womenfolk used them to
store manuscripts as well as wine and dairy products.
 After the Monastery visit, we drove to the Sadakhlo Border to re-enter Georgia. In Tbilisi, we met Nino again, our Georgian guide.
Tbilisi
As it was our last day in Tibilisi, our ladies could not resist
taking a last picture together.
 Next day, it was home sweet home to Kuala Lumpur via Almaty, Kazakhstan.
Armenian
Cuisine
I enjoyed Armenian food, with their
variety, food presentation and tantalising taste. Sometimes we had entertainment
while we dined.
  Lunch on our first day came as a great surprise. We had a complete course: unusual appetizers, different types of bread, interesting cheese platter, flavoursome pumpkin soup, beef with potatoes, yummy ice cream with chocolate sauce dessert and black coffee to round it all off. Every item was daintily displayed and delectable to the last bite.      
The lavash (traditional bread) is an
indispensable dish. We witnessed the making and baking of lavash in a
round-shaped clay oven dug into the ground, and dined alfresco with the melt-in-the-mouth bread
hot from the oven.
  
I loved the vegetables: aubergine (cooked
with other colourful vegetables), dolma (ground meat wrapped in grape leaves or
cabbage), tabbouleh (a Levantine vegetarian salad) and the inevitable tomato
and cucumber salad.
   
Khorovats (barbecued lamb, chicken or pork and even fish)
was usually the main course. It was well marinated, juicy and tender and some
members had second helping.
   
For dessert, we had sweet pastry like gata
(seen here being sold by a woman outside Khor Virap) and of course the irresistible
baklava (layers of phyllo pastry and chopped nuts). It was the perfect ending
to our last dinner in Armenia.
 
Armenia is famous for its fruits –
pomegranates, apricots, grapes, peaches, pears and figs. The fresh fruits were
so juicy and the fruit juices/wine made from them had us asking for more.
  
The 4-day holiday in Armenia ended too
soon for me. I thoroughly enjoyed the historic places, the friendly people and
the variety of appetising food. Special credit goes to the knowledgeable and
capable tour guide, Inga, who spoke English well. The excellent guides in the
museums awoke our interest in Armenian history and culture. This was a fitting
finale to our Trans-Caucasian tour.
The 3 countries, Azerbaijan, Georgia and
Armenia, were delightful to visit, each with its unique features. I had little
knowledge of these countries before but after visiting them, I have become more
aware of their natural beauty, amazing history, refreshing culture, gracious
people, and appealing food.
We are very grateful to our tour
organiser, Choo Kok Wai, for planning this superb Trans-Caucasus Tour, even
though he could not travel with us this time. These are new places and planning
the 18-day tour took a lot of time and effort. Thank you for giving us this
opportunity to explore out-of-the-way and seldom visited countries.
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