Tuesday, 4 December 2018

Japan: Land of the Rising Sun

Ahoy there! We are on the Hotaluna in Tokyo  





Japan: the next venue for the 2020 Olympics, is a country I have always wanted to visit. I have heard so much about their 
efficient transport and the bullet train, temples and shrines, sakura, beautiful gardens and fresh seafood, that I had to go and experience for myself  all these wonders.

Recently, in October, even though not Sakura season, my husband and I, together with another couple, LCM and wife Sharon, had an enjoyable holiday in this Land of the Rising Sun.

This holiday, planned by LCM and Sharon, was a free and easy trip. Our 15-day tour started with a flight to Tokyo for a 7-night stay. Then we went by bus to Takayama for a 2-night visit and to Kyoto for a 2-night stay. Finally, we went by train to Osaka for a 4-night stay, before flying back to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.


Map of Honshu Island, showing the cities  (Tokyo, Takayama, Kyoto, Osaka and Nara) we visited
Map: LCM

Arriving early in the morning (7.40 am) in Tokyo, we breezed through a hassle-free Immigration Clearance, moving in orderly lines with our face photographs and index finger (not thumb) prints taken.

My big bag on a trolley travelling on its own
As we moved out of Narita Airport with my baggage, I was amazed that my trolley with my big bag could travel on its own on the escalator. Awesome!

A colourful eye-catching welcome
Along the way, eye-catching photos of Japan’s touristy spots greeted us. What a colourful welcome!

Travelling on our own, by train and bus, was different from organized trips that we had been used to. As seniors, we found it relaxing and less stressful, as we could take our own time at certain sites or choose our preferred meals. Furthermore, we could mingle with the locals and experience their way of life.

As we would be travelling mostly by train, we bought a pasmo card.   This was conveniently used as a ticket for entry and exit out of train stations, after we loaded it with money.


TOKYO


Tokyo is the capital of Japan. Great Tokyo area is the most metropolitan area in the world, with a population of 38 million in 2018. Japan has a population of 127 million with a fertility rate of 1.42. Comparatively, Malaysia has a population of 32 million.

Tokyo has much to offer. As seniors, we did not go to Disneyland but visited other less adrenaline-pumping places, travelling mostly by train. We met many other tourists from other countries, travelling on their own too. We could feel the pulse of the city, as we travelled with the local people and mingled with them as they went about their daily life.

Map showing some of the train stations and the various places we visited in Tokyo
Map: LCM

In Tokyo, we stayed 3 nights in Frontier Hotel, Otsuka, which was near the train Subway. Then we stayed 4 nights in a two-room apartment, Sumida-ku, which had a mini-market downstairs and was near to Sumida Park and Tokyo Skytree.


Tokyo: Frontier Hotel

Tokyo_Sumida-ku - with a shop downstairs
selling fruits and vegetables

Shinjuku - Metropolitan Government Building


On our first day in Tokyo, we went to Shinjuku. We visited the Metropolitan Government Building and went to the top floor to have a panoramic view of Tokyo city as well as watch the setting sun.


Some of the tallest buildings in Tokyo, viewed from Metropolitan
Government Building

The names of the tall buildings in the picture above

Tokyo at a dizzying height - at the Observatory Tower of
Metropolitan Government Building

Setting sun in Tokyo from Metropolitan Government Building 

Later, we walked to other sections of the building. We were attracted to a Promotion Team for the Tokyo Olympics 2020. They encouraged us to wear their promotion jackets to take some photos. The Japanese are obviously looking forward to hosting the Olympics 2020, as seen in the countdown.That day was 647 days to the Olympics 2020.


Four of us with a Japanese Olympics 2020 staff, in the
LCM and Sharon (left) Metropolitan Government Building, Tokyo -


Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
 (Oasis of the Metropolitan)



This landscaped Garden in a city, was originally a residence of the Naito family in the 17th century. In the Meiji Era, the government created the Naito Shinjuku Experimental Farm, by purchasing part of Naito's estate. The farm later became the Imperial Garden, was re-organised in 1906, and eventually was opened to the public in 1949.

We walked through the spacious garden, marvelling at the 300 giant trees, all well maintained and suitably labeled. Breathing in the cool crisp air, and getting to know various giant trees were both invigorating and refreshing.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Park has about 300 giant trees,
some planted about 150 years ago in the Edo Era


This garden has spacious lawns and many giant trees offering
 ample shade. Many people, especially locals, come here for
 recreation. Here, children and teachers come for a picnic.

 Giant trees and landscaped bushes dot this garden,
beyond which are the  towers of  Metropolitan Shinjuku.



A London Plane Tree  (Platanus acerifolia), with girth of
630 cm (needs 5 people  to encircle it), height of 26 m
and age of over 120 years.



Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) with
girth of 337 cm, height of 25 m and is over
120 years. Native to North America, these
trees have aerial roots for taking in oxygen
when the forest is flooded.

Meiji Shrine


Founded in 1920, Meiji Shrine is dedicated to the Meiji Emperor and Empress. There was a gigantic wooden torii gate, and a long approach to the main building surrounded by forest, which made the area shady and cool on that hot sunny day.

I joined many visitors in writing my personal request for special prayers, to be hung on the trees for blessings.



 .

Meiji Shrine - with a gigantic wooden Torii
 gate, surrounded by forest

Cleansing before entering Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine - a Shinto  Shrine of national prayer for peace and prosperity
dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken

Tablets for special personal prayers and gratitude towards
 the deities enshrined in Meiji Shrine

Barrels of sake wrapped in straw - these empty barrels are offered every year
 to enshrined deities to show deep respect for the souls of Emperor Meiji
and Empress Shoken 

Emperor Meiji promoted modernisation by taking Western food and enjoying
 wine with it. Here, barrels of wine are contributed by Bourgogne wineries
 in France so that France and Japan will enjoy many years of friendship

Shibuya

Shibuya is a great shopping area and we spent a lazy, relaxing evening there, people-watching and merging with the locals.

  “Shibuya 109”, a department store in Shibuya, all lighted up. It houses the latest
   trendy Japanese fashion like shoes, clothes, costumes, beauty products,
                                     accessories and food.
Shibuya Scramble Crossing

This is the busiest intersection in the world. In one day, about half a million people cross this large intersection at the same time. Once the traffic lights turn green, the people (like programmed),  start crossing the street. We joined in, and experienced what it was like to cross a street with 3000 people at once, without knocking into each other.





Red lights: Pedestrians getting ready 

Green lights: Pedestrians crossing orderly without knocking into one another

Tourists getting ready with their cameras to capture the Scramble Crossing

Hachiko Statue

Hachiko Statue - bronze statue of Akita dog. This dog  waited for his master every day at the train station at 4 pm and continued waiting for 10 years even after  his master  (Hidesaburo Ueno, an agriculture professor at University of Tokyo), died of a stroke. 

Resting and people-gazing - next to Hachiko Statue
This statue was erected in the dog's  honour, to show 
Japanese symbol of loyalty and faithfulness



A green van in front of Hachiko Statue - a popular
place for people to meet


Inside the green van with giant Hello Kitty doll


Mt Fuji (Fujisan) Tour

Commonly called Fujisan, Mt Fuji is an active volcano and the country’s tallest peak at 3,776 m. It is a pilgrimage site for centuries, and many people have scaled it, the oldest being a man above 100 years, according to our tour guide. Amazing!

We joined a Mt.Fuji - Hakone 1-Day Tour. Together with 40 other tourists from around the globe, we first travelled by bus to Mt Fuji 5th Station (which has a shrine too), then had a traditional Japanese lunch, followed by an hour’s bus ride to Hakone. In Hakone, we took a Lake Ashi cruise, then travelled up to Mt Komagatake by cable car, and finally took a Bullet train back to Tokyo. It was an exhausting but worthwhile outing - seeing the famed mountain and experiencing different modes of transport!  


A special landmark of  Mt Fuji

 Mt Fuji 5th Station

Excitement: First sight of Mt Fuji at the back  of us in the misty and cloudy day

At a little museum, with autumn-coloured pine trees in the background

A Photo of Mt Fuji - displayed in the little museum. We could not see
 the snow-covered mountain that day because it was a misty and cloudy day.



Souvenir shops at Mt Fuji 5th Station
A Shrine in Fujisan 5th Station        Photo: Sharon


Restaurant where we had our Japanese lunch
Hakone - Lake Ashi cruise

All of us on board on the Lake Ashi Cruise   Photo: LCM

Beautiful landscapes as we cruised on Lake Ashi
Hakone Shrine - red shrine gates seemingly floating on the water.
Photo: Sharon

Excitement and awe while cruising in the cool environment

Mt Komagatake with the top landing for the cable car
as viewed from our cruise ship 



Souvenirs galore to shop while waiting to board the cable car

A wide variety of souvenirs to tempt tourists
 Mt Komagatake Ropeway 


On the way to Mt Komagatake Ropeway with other tourists
 from United States, Italy, Spain, India and Japan
On the crowded cable car to Mt Komagatake 1327 m high

Mt Komagatake

On Mt Komagatake with our tour guide. It was extremely cold and misty.
Brrr! we could not appreciate the scenic beauty up there

Bullet train (Shinkansen)  


The Bullet Train - the journey takes only 40 minutes, 
but by bus may take 3 to 4 hours


Inside Shinkansen - from Odawa Station (Mt Fuji) to Tokyo. The ride was
smooth and silent, like being on a plane

Asakusa

Asakusa is the centre of Tokyo’s shitamachi (literally “low city”), where an atmosphere of Tokyo’s past decades survive. It represents a mixture of traditional and modern side of Tokyo. The main attractions are Sensoji Temple and Kaminarimon Street, which spans 400 m.

Kaminarimon Street

Kaminarimon (Kaminari Gate) : Large entrance leading to Sensoji Temple -
there was a sea of people from all walks of life

Asakusa Kaminarimon Shopping Street - Rows and rows of shops with
 all varieties of souvenirs and snacks to tempt visitors. It is the main
venue for a variety of events held in Asakusa, like New Year,
Sanja Matsuri, Asakusa Samba Carnival and Tokyo Jidai Matsuri.

Souvenirs to tempt visitors

Gifts galore for loved ones 


A chef making his much-sought-after red-bean bun

The warm red-bean bun was yummy, freshly made right
in front of our eyes.


The guys contemplating: to buy or not to buy? green tea or vanilla ?


Sensoji KannonTemple

This is the oldest temple in Tokyo and a special symbol of Asakusa area. It is dedicated to the Buddhist goddess of mercy and compassion.



Inside Sensoji Kannon Temple, built in the 7th century

Throngs of people praying to Bodhisattva Kannon (Quan-Yin in Chinese)
 at the Senso-ji Buddhist Temple

Ginza

Ginza is Tokyo’s most famous upmarket shopping, dining and entertainment district, with department stores, boutiques, art galleries, restaurants, night clubs and cafes. We enjoyed taking photos there, as they gave a good perspective of the high buildings.

Ginza - a high-end shopping paradise, and a groovy place 
for photography

Tsukiji Fish Market

This is the largest fish market in Tokyo. Fresh fish and other seafood are sold in many shops. We joined the hordes of tourists walking and smelling the fresh products and just had to have our lunch there. We were amused to see an elderly man, relishing his fresh fish all by himself, oblivious of his surroundings. That is how fresh fish should be enjoyed, he seemed to say.

Tsukiji Outer Market - Fresh fish galore.

An elderly man obviously enjoying
his fresh fish, oblivious to the
crowd around him

We had lunch at this restaurant - fish was incredibly fresh and tasty. 

Imperial Palace

The Tokyo Imperial Palace is the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan. It is a large park-like area and contains the main palace, private residences of the Imperial Family, an archive, museums and administrative offices.


We were too far away to see the Imperial Palace and it was difficult to take photos of it because it was against the sun. But we made friends with a pretty French girl there, Laura, who was travelling to learn more about tea houses in Japan. We exchanged  experiences on travelling in Japan.



Imperial Palace - so near and yet so far
Following the Meiji Restoration in 1868, Emperor Meiji
moved here from Kyoto. 

On the grounds next to the Imperial Palace, we met a French girl, Laura.
We exchanged experiences on travelling in Japan.

Sumida Park

Sumida Park is a public park within walking distance from our apartment. There are about 700 cherry trees on both sides of the Sumida River and in Spring they would be a pretty sight. 

Nevertheless, we enjoyed strolling along the large and serene park and taking in the local happenings as well as taking photos of the surrounding area that interested us.

We met up with my son's Japanese friend, Toshi and his family, in Ushijima Shrine (Sumida Park), our designated place of meeting.



Skytree - an iconic landmark near our apartment


Ushijima Shrine - A Shinto Shrine in Sumida Park, founded in 860

 Ushijima Shrine - This cow statue is
believed to heal your ailments if you caress it.

A wedding couple in traditional costume at the Ushijima Shrine 

Sumida Bridge on the Sumida River in Sumida Park

The Sumida River is also popular for water sports as seen in
the background
Sumida Park is popular for locals - joggers, cyclists, picnickers and photo
 enthusiasts. We met a bridal couple in the green Sumida Park, having their
photo shoots and they obligingly took a photo with us.


Shuttle Bus Tour

After lunch, we took a train from Asakusa to Odaiba. From there we boarded a free Shuttle bus that took us around Tokyo Bay. We alighted at Odaiba – a scenic and appealing place for photography.


The guys smiling cheerily against the backdrop of the Rainbow Bridge.
It is a suspension bridge, 798 m long. Built by Kawasaki Heavy Industries,
construction started in 1987 and it was completed in 1993.


The ladies posing with the Rainbow Bridge and a clearer Odaiba Island.
Odaiba is a high-tech  entertainment hub on an artificial island in Tokyo Bay


Small-scale copy of the Statue of Liberty - with Rainbow Bridge,
 Odaiba Island  and high rise buildings against a clear blue sky
 in the background

With Toshi and wife, Kayo and 2 sons. Posing in front of Sony
Explorascience  Museum, Tokyo's most innovative Technology
Museum. The setting sun and its golden hue cast a healthy glow to our cheerful faces.



Then the best part of the evening happened. We took a high-speed ferry or waterbus, called Hotaluna, back to Asakusa  from Odaiba. Hotaluna is the second futuristic vessel produced by anime master, Leiji Matsumoto.  The roof converts to a promenade deck where we could enjoy the scenic sights and iconic landmarks all around. The high-tech spaceship-like Hotaluna was super cool! We had a fun-filled thrilling one hour ride back to Asakusa.


Hotaluna - a high-tech space-ship like ferry .We boarded this ferry
 that took us back from Tokyo Bay to Asakusa, which took 1 hour.

                           
On deck on the Hotaluna. What a novel idea - viewing iconic places of Tokyo
 as we journey back to our apartment. Dusk was approaching and it was
refreshing to feel the tangy cool air caressing our skin and hair



Ready, steady, smile!
Trying to keep steady and still for a memorable shot on the Hotaluna!



Silhouette of Toshi's sons against the setting sun        Photo: Sharon

The Rainbow Bridge with the setting sun and the emergent moon
Photo: Sharon

As Hotaluna would be passing by many bridges, we adjourned below deck
  which was cosy and warm. A huge tv screen had an ongoing commentary
 of the  many features of Hotaluna. We had a great time exchanging
experiences (Malaysian-Japanese) with each other

Back in Asakusa after a thrilling ride on the Hotaluna,
with the lighted Skytree in the background   
Nikko

Nikko is a small city, in the mountains north of Tokyo. It is the site of Toshogu, the famed Shinto shrine, established in 1617 as a lavish memorial for Tokugawa leyasu, founding ruler of the Tokugawa shogunate, or Edo Period. The Shrine comprises the gilded Yomeimon Gate, the main sanctuary set in a cedar grove and the tomb itself.


We bought tickets and boarded a Shuttle Bus to Nikko Heritage Site. The bus stopped at designated places for us to alight and tour the various sites.

Nikko Toshogu, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple form the Shrines and Temples of Nikko UNESCO World Heritage Site (registered in 1999). 




Entrance to Nikko Heritage Site. This copper statue of  Tokugawa Leyasu
was built in 1955 to honour his contribution to the area.

 Nikko Toshugu Shrine

Toshogu, a Shinto shrine, was established in 1617 as a memorial for Tokugawa leyasu,  founding ruler of the Tokugawa shogunate,  or Edo Period.

The Shrine comprises the gilded Yomeimon Gate, the main sanctuary set in a cedar grove and the tomb itself. 


With 2 tourists, dressed in kimono, at the
side entrance to Nikko Toshugo Shrine

Gojunoto  (5-storey Pagoda) - almost 55 m high, tallest wooden tower in Japan.
Photo: Sharon



Stairs leading to the site of  Nikko Toshogu Shrine. A sea
 of people,  from many tour groups were queueing to go up

Futarasan Shrine

Futarasan Shrine was founded in 782 by Shodo Shonin, the Buddhist monk who introduced Buddhism to Nikko and who also founded Rinnoji Temple nearby. Futarasan Shrine is dedicated to the deities of Nikko's 3 most sacred mountains: Mt Nantai, Mt Nyoho and Mt Taro. Located one km from the shrine grounds, the Shinkyo Bridge belongs to Futarasan Shrine.

Torri gate of Futarasan Jinja Shrine

One of the Santuaries of Futarasan Jinja Shrine

Nikko Futarasan Jinja Shrine

Shinkyo Bridge

This red-laquered sacred bridge crosses Daiya river at a height of 10 m and spans 28 m.  Local legend states that a priest, Shodo, prayed for a way to cross the river and God answered by sending 2 snakes that intertwined to form the bridge. 

This bridge was built in 1636 and has been extensively painted. It is opened to the public in 1973, and  was designated a UNESCO World heritage site in 1999.





Shinkyo Bridge -  This red-laquered sacred bridge was designated
a UNESCO World heritage site in 1999.


Rinnoji Temple

Rinnoji Temple is Nikko’s most important temple, founded by Shodo Shonin. The temple’s main building, the Sanbutsudo, houses large, gold lacquered, wooden statues of Amida Senju-Kannon and Bato-Kannon. The 3 deities are regarded as Buddhist manifestations of Nikko’s 3 mountain deities which are enshrined at Futarasan Shrine.

Rinnoji Temple - a Buddhist temple in Nikko,
 completed in 766.


TAKAYAMA

Takayama is located in the mountainous Central Honshu of Japan. It is the gateway to Japan Alps and Japan’s inland culture. It has a traditional down town lined with traditional houses, shops, temples and shrine.

Takayama is a great stopover between Tokyo and Kyoto. It is the gateway to hiking paradise of the Japan Alps and Shirakawago, a UNESCO World Heritage listed village.

After 7 days in Tokyo, we travelled to Takayama by bus. It was a long long journey,  passing through many tunnels along mountainous terrain. As we travelled south, the scene changed. Colourful autumn leaves greeted us, a pleasing change from the concrete modern buildings of Tokyo.


Takayama: Colourful hues of red, gold and yellow autumn foliage greeted us



Takayama_ Country Hotel, with a
family mart downstairs
Photo: Sharon



In Takayama, we checked into Country Hotel, which was near a bus station. A family mart was located downstairs. 

Shirakawago (Gassho Zukuri)

Next day, from our hotel, we took a bus to Shirakawago, 50 km away. Shirakawago, a popular tourist site, is a small traditional village with a building style known as gassho-zukuri (thick-thatched roofed houses).

Gassho means “hands in prayer”. The construction of these roofs bound the people together as usually the villagers come together to help in re-thatching the roofs.

The characteristics of these houses are sunken hearth in the centre of the living room, 60 degree roof inclination and absence of nails. In order to minimize wind damage and maximize sun exposure, all gassho-zukuri houses face north or south. These houses are warm in winter and cool in summer. The Gassho-style thatched roof houses can withstand heavy snowfall in winter.


From an observation deck - Shirakawago , a small traditional village, showcasing
a style known as gassho-zukuri, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As of 1st Dec
 2017, this village had an estimated population of 1668 in 582 households.

Scarecrows in front of the Three Historic Villages 

Testing how thick the thatched roof is
Gassho-zukuri - a traditional thatched house
Serene and peaceful - these artistic homes are a sight to behold
especially with the autumn vegetation. They would be beautiful
too in all the other seasons.
Gigantic trees near the villages

A picture from a showroom: showing the building of one Gassho-kuzuri.
Building it needs the cooperation of thousands of workers working
as a team. No nails were used,and strong strings were meticulously
weaved in  and out to tie the thatched roof.  Building the home
 together as a team was a beautiful work of art too.



A picture from a showroom: showing workers attaching the thatched roof
without any nails - a difficult and risky job


KYOTO

Kyoto is Japan’s greatest ancient city and the most popular tourist destination.
It is the best place in Japan to experience traditional temples, shrines and gardens, geisha, shops, restaurants and festivals.

From Takayama, we travelled by bus to Kyoto, the old capitol of Japan.  As we neared Kyoto, the weather got sunnier and warmer. 


Kyoto: Saizen Matsumuro, with
house owner,Aki (2nd from left)


In Kyoto, we stayed in a very spacious two-room apartment, Saizen Matsumuro, where the hospitable owners,  Jun and Aki, stayed on the top floor. We did our laundry (wash and dry), relaxed on a massage chair and even cooked a meal. It was like home.



Saizen Matsumura Apartment - Enjoying a home-cooked meal in the
spacious well-equipped kitchen-dining hall

With owners of Apartment
Jun (back row, right) and Aki (front row, middle)

In Kyoto, we visited Arashiyama (Bamboo Grove), Tenryuji Temple and Fushimi Inari Shrine.

Arashiyama



The Bamboo Forest of Arashiyama, Kyoto, is one of Kyoto’s top sights. The Japanese have a long history with bamboo, in myths and legends, linking man’s strength with this plant.

My husband and I took the bus to Arashiyama, while LCM and Sharon bravely cycled there. They found the ride invigorating, as they cycled through the main roads as well as along special bicycle paths.

 It was a hot day. Many tourists, local and foreign, were visiting this extraordinary site. We had to walk very far, over 500 m long, to finally reach the Bamboo Grove. But it was worth the long journey. Standing amidst the  soaring stalks of bamboo was surreal.


Trying out the 4 bicycles offered free from the apartment.
LCM and Sharon cycled to Arashiyama while my husband and I
 took a bus there, as the bicycles were not suitable for us.

Togetsu-kyo Bridge - Spanning the Oi River, it is a popular sight-seeing
spot for its scenic beauty. It is often seen as a backdrop in movies and
television dramas. From this bridge, we took a long long
walk to the  Bamboo Grove.





Togetsu-kyo Bridge - a view from a different angle in late autumn
Photo: Jun from Saizen Matsumuro  (taken in November 2018 when
he went jogging near his apartment)



Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The majestic bamboo towered above us, reaching
for the skies. It was amazing and even magical to be among these natural
 slender bamboo.

We managed to meet up with LCM and Sharon, in spite of the  huge crowd
of people. All around us, visitors were snapping photos of themselves with
these  elegant beauties.


Tenryuji Temple

Tenryuji Temple was founded by Ashikaga Takauji in 1339. In 1994, it was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sogenchi Garden – a garden of artistic beauty, in front of Tenryuji Temple showed  Zen at its best. The garden was designated by the United Nations as a World Cultural Heritage Site.

  
Tenryuji Temple - hundreds of people were either exploring the interior of the
 temple or sitting down outside to admire the Zen Garden in front

Sogenchi Garden - showing Zen at its best,
 in front of the Tenryuji Temple


Fushimi Inari Shrine 

Fushimi Inari Shrine is a significant shrine in Southern Kyoto. It is well-known for its thousands of vermilion torii gates which lead into the forest of the sacred Mt Inari, the Shinto god of rice.
The two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii were donated by individuals and companies. The donator’s name and date of the donation was inscribed on the back of each gate. We were astounded to see such a huge number of torii gates – what a dazzling display! It was mind boggling.


A Giant torii gate in front of the Romon gate
- Dancing with joy after reaching  Fushimi Inari Shrine entrance

In front of the Romon Gate, which was donated in 1589 by the
famous leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates) - stunning torii
  gates curving artistically along a long path

The torii gates have names of donaters inscribed in it.
Many tourists come here to take photos,
 and some are dressed in the kimono.

OSAKA


Osaka is the second largest metropolitan area in Japan. The city of Osaka and its municipality has a population of 20 million.

Osaka is famous as a gourmand’s paradise. Okonomiyaki (pan-fried batter cake) is Osaka’s most famous dish. Other dishes include takoyaki (octopus in fried batter), udon (noodle dish), traditional oshizshi (pressed sushi), and pressed mackerel sushi.

Osaka: Sonezaki Luxe Hotel
Photo: Sharon


Our stay in Osaka was at Sonezaki Luxe Hotel which was near to the Central Station, with many eating restaurants and convenience stores nearby.

Osaka has many interesting spots to visit. 
While families with children flocked to Universal Studios, we concentrated on Osaka Castle, Love Shrine, Shinsaibashi Street, Deer Park, Kasuga Shrine and Todaiji Temple.

Osaka Castle

Osaka Castle stands on an expansive lawn covered park and consists of moats, turrets and walls surrounding a massive central tower , which is 55 m high.

It was first built between 1583 and 1585 by warlord  Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Much of the castle was destroyed in  wars of the early 17th century, rebuilt in 1620, lost to fire in 1665, reconstructed in 1931, damaged by typhoon in 1950 and renovated in 1997.

We took a lift to the topmost floor for a panaromic view of Osaka city. Then we walked down every floor of the 8 floors, stopping at every floor to view a museum detailing the history of Osaka Castle and Japanese art and literature.There were historical artifacts, colourful screen paintings, samurai costumes that visitors can try for a fee.



Osaka Castle - from a distance, surrounded
by greens.

Topmost  Floor of  Central Tower - Observation Deck with a
panaromic view of Osaka City

On one of the floors - Replicas of rooftop ornaments

Shinsaibashi


Shinshaibashi is a big shopping complex. It was teeming with shoppers from many
Asian countries. We did some shopping at Daiso, Uniglo and H & M.


Shinssaibashi - a big shopping complex

NARA

From Osaka,we went by train to Nara and back. Nara is second city next to Kyoto as the richest traditional site in Japan. The famous sites are Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Todaiji Temple, Kasuga-Taisha Shrine and Nara-Koen (Nara Park).


Deer Park (Nara Koen)


Nara Park, established in 1880, is one of the oldest parks in Japan. As we walked along its 502 hectares land, we saw some of the 1200 semi-wild deer, roaming freely. Many come sniffing around us, for deer crackers. Considered to be messengers of the gods, some are said to bow to visitors when they are fed. I did not observe any deer doing that but LCM did. 
A deer approaching, eager to eat
deer crackers handed out by tourists

Friendly deer roaming freely in the Deer Park

These deer are resting and do not mind people moving around them

Kasuga Grand Shrine

Kasuga Grand Shrine is Nara’s most important shrine in Nara Park. Established in 768, it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the shrine of the Fujiwara family.
 
We were impressed by the interior – many bronze lanterns and over 3000 stone lanterns led up to the shrine. The path to Kasuga Shrine passed through the Deer Park where the deer are believed to be sacred messengers of the Shinto gods.

It was an auspicious day for a wedding was going on inside the Shrine Area, the bridal couple was in traditional wear as well as some children who were all taking photos when we arrived.

A Stone Plaque of Kasuga Shrine

An engaging deer statue - a place for visitors to cleanse themselves
before entering the Shrine

Entrance to Kasuga Shrine

A sign at the Entrance

A bridal couple and family in traditional wear

Adorable children in kimono taking photos
  
Rows and rows of appealing lanterns 

A  very old Wisteria Plant  in Kasuga Shrine - Wisteria , or Fuji in Japanese,
is a climbing vine with lovely purple flowers, especially in Spring time,
but we could not see any flowers as it was autumn


Todaiji Temple (Eastern Great Temple)

Todaiji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is Nara’s most iconic and popular landmark. A Buddhist temple, it is one of the 7 great temples in Nara, housing the World’s largest bronze statue(15 m tall) of Buddha Vairocana of , known in Japanese as Daibutsu.

Constructed in 752 AD of Japanese Buddhist architecture, it is the World’s biggest wooden structures. Walking around the interior of the Temple, I was drawn to a long pillar with a hole at its base. It is said that those who could crawl through it will be granted enlightenment in their next life.


The iconic Todaiji Temple

The stately gigantic Buddha - front view

The pillar with a hole at the base. A young girl attempts to squeeze through
to the other side.

The girl succeeded in emerging from the hole.

Love Shrine

We have visited many shrines in Japan but had not heard of a Love Shrine. So out of curiosity, we visited this shrine, which actually was within walking distance from our hotel.

Love Shrine or Ohatsu Tenjin Shrine (officially called Tsuyuno Tenjinsha) has a rich history of more than 1300 years.  The story is Japan’s own “Romeo and Juliet”. The romance is between a geisha, Ohatsu, and the owner of a soy sauce store, Tokubei. Just like in Shakespeare’s play, the romance ended tragically with the lovers committing suicide at the forest of Tsuyuno Tenjinsha.

The Shrine is popular with young couples and those seeking true love. There was a statue of  the loving couple and cardboard drawings of a Japanese couple with 2 cut-out holes for visitors to place their faces in. As usual in all the shrines, there were many charms and ema (wooden plaques to write prayers for true love) for sale, targeted at visitors who seek romance.   

LCM and Sharon with the statue of the loving couple
Photo: Sharon

Heart-shaped Ema for visitors to write their prayers
Photo: Sharon

Konnichiwa  

Cuisine

Travelling on our own gave us the freedom to choose what and where to eat.
We managed to sample many Japanese’ favourites like sushi, sashimi, pickled vegetables, grilled or fried meat, tempura, shabu-shabu, green tea, usually eaten with sticky rice and miso soup, and different types of noodles.

Sometimes we had lunch served at counters, which was quick and efficient. We first bought a ticket from a machine with our choice of the dish. This was passed to the chef who cooked it right in front of us and we were served almost immediately
  
There were many convenience stores in every city. We could buy ready-packed meals and heat it up in our apartment for a simple quick meal. Sometimes, we go to Western outlets like McDonald's for burgers (with ham or teriyaki chicken), and sometimes we had Korean dishes like bibimbap. 

We enjoyed many Japanese snacks as well as Western ones. Ice-cream, flavoured with green tea, or even miso, was simply yummy. At times, we cooked our own meals in our apartment and that was when we had a lot of vegetables.

Some of these delectable food are shown below:



We had raw fish like these - Sashimi
Bento sets: meat/fish, pickled vegetables, miso soup and sticky rice
Beef on rice, with  vegetables and soup 

Sticky rice with unagi, mackerel, beef and miso soup


Japanese yakitori (grilled meat) in centre and takoyaki
(ball-shaped snack made of wheat-flour batter and filled
with diced octopus) on both sides
Yummy Indian curry and vegetables
Soba noodles topped with meat and vegetables

 In Fujisan - A Japanese meal of noodles, tempura,
pickled vegetables, tofu and sticky rice




In one restaurant, we had a mixed menu of shabu-shabu (hotpot) and grilled meat. The waiting line was very long but we had comfortable seats while waiting. It was worth the wait, as the Hida beef for the shabu-shabu and grilled meat were simply delightful.



A thumb's up for this restaurant 
2 styles of enjoying Hida Beef: Shabu-shabu and Grill

At a restaurant with Toshi and son, we also had a  mixed menu meal 

A mixed menu meal of Yakinikut (beef), Chicken, Ishiyaki
Stone grilled and Bibimbap, Salad, and green
ice-cream dessert



Sometimes we go to McDonald for special Burgers - here
we had ham (left) and terriyaki chicken (right)

Attractively-packed meals sold at many convenience shops 

Ready-packed meals sold at many convenience shops
Sometimes we had our meals while seated at the counter
Cooking our meals in our apartment in Sumida-ku

Snacks

Many malls and family marts have tempting pastries to warm our hearts. The
varieties were so many - we were spoilt for choice


Snacks: Clockwise from top left: doughnuts with green tea and syrup,
 hash brown, okonomiyaki, apple pie



An apple pie shaped like a
pumpkin to celebrate Halloween.


At the Krispy Kreme Cafe - Delectable ice-cream on doughnut,
 decorated with nuts and streaks of sweet maple syrup


Interesting Insights

My first impression of Japan was the cleanliness. Everywhere we went, we saw clean buildings, clean vehicles and clean streets, without any rubbish in sight.

The toilets (in hotels, subway, convenience stores and other public places) were exceptionally clean with high-tech bidet selections. Some even have a music selection that played soothing flushing water while you empty your bowels or bladder.

An environmentally-friendly toilet: with a
 selection of automatic washes and a pipe
 of recycled water on top 



The toilets in our apartments have a pipe on top which flows with recycled water for hand-washing every time we flush - really environmentally-friendly.  I vote Japan’s toilets as the best in the world.

Not many Japanese can speak English, which is sad. We had problems ordering food, asking for warm water instead of being served iced drinks, or asking for directions. We found it useful to learn a few Japanese words like hot water, thank you, hello, good morning, goodnight, yes, no and excuse me.

Independent children travelling on their on the train
Friendly and obliging students on their way home after school.

Students in uniform : polite and cheerful


Japanese children were independent, respectful and helpful. Like the adults, many were not able to speak English. But most of them will whip out their phone, search for a map or suitable data and from there guide or help us with directions or other matters.

Trains and buses are always punctual. They are clean and
spacious. This train has comfortable seats with suitable
handles for passengers to hold on to.

Conductor - smartly dressed, helpful and dedicated to his work

The transport system is ultra efficient. The trains and buses that we travelled in were always on time, with high-technology working in clock-work precision. 

Announcements in the trains and buses were usually in 3 languages - mainly Japanese, English and Mandarin, which were well enunciated.

A picture of respect and dedication to work: A worker making
 a deep bow to the driver as he started to drive off
Photo: Sharon


The people working in public transport, shops or hotels and those we met on the streets, were polite, friendly and respectful of others. We found the drivers, conductors and other officers in the transport system well-dressed, dedicated to their work, and often bowing to say thank you.

The kimono attire is elegant and attractive, as seen in this picture

Kimono-clad tourists, walking happily together




Arayashima:Tourists with kimonos enjoying
wearing the attire. They find walking with
 the Japanese slippers a little difficult





In Asakusa - Kaminarimon Street

I find the Kimono, the traditional Japanese garment, feminine and elegant. Unfortunately, it is only worn by the Japanese women for formal occasions. On the other hand, many tourists like it - they loan it to wear for a few hours or a day especially to take photos.

An owner taking his dog for a walk
Many Japanese like animals. We saw many owners taking their pet dogs for 
a walk. Because of the cold, many of the dogs wear a little coat.



Have you heard of Pachinko? It was something new to me. Pachinko is a type of mechanical game, comparable to a slot machine in Western gaming. It is a form of recreational arcade game that men frequent.


 Japanese men playing Pachinko - a very noisy gambling game


The Japanese' dedication to cleanliness, hard work, discipline, punctuality and respect are commendable and admirable.  
          
Our 15-day holiday came to an end all too soon. Travelling on our own was challenging but rewarding - we get to see and do more than if we had travelled with an organised tour. 

Clean, colourful and technologically-advanced, Japan is definitely a country I would love to visit again.
......................................................................................................
I wish to thank LCM and Sharon for organising this enjoyable holiday and for sharing some of their photos here.