Wednesday, 10 June 2020

A cultural and historical tour

The Le Tian tour group posing in front of the Ruins of St Paul's in Macau

Last October 2019, my husband and I went on a 9-day tour of some cities in Southern China. It was organised by the Klang Elderly Senior Citizens Club ( Le Tian) and there were 31 of us in the group.

Our tour began with a flight to Hong Kong. From there, we took a bus to Zhuhai via the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge (HZMB).

Our tour included visits to Macau, Zhuhai, Zhongshan, Foshan and Guangzhou, focusing on the cultural and historical aspects of each city. We saw the iconic landmarks of each place, viewing them from near and far, as well as during day or night for a better perspective. 

We visited museums and historical buildings, many of which featured the revolutionary figure, Dr Sun Yat-sen. 

The holiday was an insightful eye-opening trip for me. 

Map showing the cities we visited



Highlights:


The Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge (HZMB)

The HZMB - the world's longest sea
crossing bridge

We travelled with great excitement along the Hong Kong_Zhuhai_Macau_Bridge (HZMB), the world’s longest sea crossing bridge and the longest open-sea fixed link on earth. Constructed in 2009 and completed in 2018, this 55 km bridge - designed to last 120 years - costs a whopping USD 18.8 billion to build.

It took about one hour to drive the length of the bridge. All along the 6-laned bridge, I could see only the road in front of me, while outside was the bridge railing with the blue sky above and the dark green sea below.


The HZMB - night view from a boat cruise

The HZMB - close up

It was only in the evening that I had a better view of the HZMB. From a boat cruise, the bridge stood out magnificently amidst the brightly-lit city and starless sky.  
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Macau

Passing by the brilliant Galaxy Macau


Famous for casinos, Macau (with 41 casinos) is one of the world’s top gambling cities, and is often called the “Vegas of the East”. A Portuguese territory until 1999, Macau has a blend of Portuguese and Chinese cultures.

a) Ruins of St Paul's

Ruins of St Paul's showing the many steps up the hill

We went to the 17thcentury Catholic Church of St Paul (or Ruins of St Paul’s). Constructed in 1602 to 1640, it was the largest church in Asia and was even known as “The Vatican of the Far East”.  However, the church burned down in 1835, leaving only the beautiful facade and a stairway. The church’s design has a mix of East and West, a baroque facade and classic oriental characteristics.

Hordes of visitors throng this historic Centre of Macau, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After a group photo, we walked down the stairway to Senado Square, passed by St Dominic Church, shops, and caught a glimpse of the statue of Jorge Alvares.



Senado Square



St Dominic Church




Senado Square

              
Statue of Jorge Alvares - 16th century
Portuguese navigator, who went to
 China in 1513.

We also visited 2 museums, Handover Gifts Museum of Macau and Museum of Macau, which enlightened us on the history of Macau. 

b) Handover Gifts Museum of Macau (Macau Huigui Museum)

Some interesting exhibits are shown below:





 

This museum commemorates the transfer of sovereignty over Macau from Portugal back to China. The gifts were priceless beautiful works of art.
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c) Museum of Macau


In front of Museum of Macau

Chinese coins

The Museum of Macau presents the history of the city and the territory of the former Portuguese colony of Macau, now a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China. I found the Chinese coins display intriguing.
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 Zhuhai

Zhuhai Opera House:

Our group in front of the imposing Zhuhai Opera House

Ladies only - with the Zhuhai Opera House

In Zhuhai where we stayed for 3 nights, we visited its landmark Opera House. Shaped as scallops to represent the brilliant sun and entrancing moon, the Opera House looked impressive from afar. 

It has a 1,550-seat concert hall and 500-seat theatre. Costing 1.08 billion yuan, it is the first on-island theatre in the Chinese mainland. With floor space of nearly 50,000 sq m, it is equipped with world-advanced acousto-optic and stage technical effects.
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Zhongshan

In Zhongshan, we visited the Former Residence of Dr Sun Yat-sen and the Museum of Dr Sun Yat-sen.

a) Former Residence of Dr Sun Yat-sen

Former Residence of Dr Sun Yat-sen

Dr Sun Yat-sen, a philosopher, physician and politician, was born on November 12, 1866, in this site, formerly a mud-house (8m by 4m), where he lived until he was 13 years old.

He then left for Hawaii to live with his brother for 4 years. He returned to China to study medicine in Hong Kong and Guangzhou, coming back often to stay in this ancestral home.

Between 1892 and 1895, he practised medicine among the country people.  In this house, he studied history and politics, wrote a book and started planning for the Revolution. 

In 1892, at age 26, he designed this house, using Eastern and Western motifs. The exterior is western, while the interior is traditional Chinese. He made sure this house had a lot of fresh air by building it facing west (forest) and having many windows and doors.

This is the site in front of the house where
Dr Sun Yat-sen was born

What an unusual house, I mused as we explored the 2-storey pink house. It was cool and breezy even though it was a hot afternoon. Visiting Dr Sun’s birthplace gave me an idea of this man who is destined for great feats.

b) Museum of Dr Sun Yat-sen

The entrance of the Museum of Dr Sun Yat-sen

Statue of Dr Sun Yat-sen inside the museum


From the Residence of Dr Sun Yat-sen, we walked over to this Museum, where we learned more about the great revolutionist’s personal and family history.

The ground floor had exhibits detailing his life, political struggles and the successful Xinhai Revolution in 1911, while the first floor had exhibits of his family members, especially those who influenced his upbringing and his struggles through the many revolutions he organised.


This museum is a good place to learn about the life of Dr Sun Yat-sen who is often called the “George Washington of China”.  

A photo of The Soong Sisters
- on the first floor

Bronze Sculpture titled 'Roots' outside the
 museum. In his childhood, Sun Yat-sen was
often told the story of Hong Xiuquan and the
 Taiping Rebellion under the banyan tree outside
his house by an old man called Fan Guanshuang
who had participated in the Rebellion. Dr Sun
later recalled that it was at that time that his
revolutionary ideas began to develop.
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Shunde

Qinghui Garden


In Shunde, which is also my ancestral village, we were enthralled by the beauty of Qinghui Garden. It is the most beautiful of Province Guangdong’s
4 Famous Gardens. 

An ancient garden, this exquisite Park is built in the Ming Dynasty. There were water features, brick carvings, stained glass in the classic Lingnan style. Some of the picturesque scenes are shown here:








We spent some time walking around the different parts of the garden, stopping to relax under the trees and pleasant surroundings and taking many photos in the beautiful setting.



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Foshan

a) Ancient Nanfeng Kiln

Ancient Nanfeng Kiln


Our group next to Nanfeng Kiln

Le Tian members from the Calligraphy Class
 posing next to Nanfeng Kiln

Nanfeng Kiln is a cultural relic that was built in the Ming Dynasty (1506 -1521) in Foshan. It is still functional today, making Shiwan ware or Chinese pottery, operating well over 500 years – amazing! We found some giant banyan trees which were more than 400 years old growing steady and healthy behind the kiln.

We were given a demonstration of how pottery and ceramics were made by skilled artists. Everyone was hard at work shaping and painting their works of art. The main subject was the rat, because the following year (2020) was the Year of the Rat.

A worker applying paint on the rat


There was also a display centre there selling beautiful porcelain and ceramic figurines as well as vases and life-like statues of politicians, as shown below:   







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b) Foshan Zumiao Museum


This Museum consists of a Taoist temple, museum and exhibition centre. It is a museum and active temple where people come to see martial arts performances, visit a museum about martial artists and worship their ancestors or Taoist deities.

Built in the Song Dynasty around 1080, it was ruined when the Mongols ruled. It was rebuilt in 1372 during the Ming Dynasty. In the 20th century, it was converted to a Foshan Municipal Museum.

Some of the artistic features are shown below:

Foshan Zumiao Museum




I was interested to browse around the Huang Feihong Memorial Hall showcasing his life and various art works featuring him like soap operas and many more, over the past 80 years. There were interesting write-ups of Ip Man and Bruce Lee too.

Statue of Wong Feihong



 



Currently, Martial Arts and Cantonese Opera performances are seen regularly. We were lucky to see lion dance and martial arts performances that day. 

A Martial Arts Performer
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Guangzhou 

a) Canton Tower 

Canton Tower in Haixinsha Park

Canton Tower in Haixinsha Park

Canton Tower, a facility used for radio and television broadcast, is the highest tower in China and third highest in the world. A distinctive landmark of Guangzhou, it opened in 2010 during the 16th Asian Games.

Canton Tower at night, glowing with
 iridescent light

                                       
                                            From a cruise,we viewed the Canton Tower 
                                                       rotating and changing colours

How regal and resplendent it looked when we saw it in Haixinsha Park. It was even more beautiful when we saw it at night while on a cruise along the Pearl River. It drew gasps of admiration all round, as it rotated slowly, glowing with iridescent light.


At the Canton Tower, 428 m high

We took a lift up to the top and stopped at 428 m floor of this 604 m Tower. From that dizzying height, we had a panoramic view of Guangzhou city.

We strolled around the rotating floor, checking out  the lookout platforms, restaurants with appetising food and souvenir shops. 

Interestingly, Mark Hemel was inspired by a female’s hip joint when he designed it, adding a slim waist to compliment it. The architects too wanted it to be slender and tall to represent Guangzhou as a dynamic and exciting city.
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b) Huangpu Military Academy

In front of Huangpu Military Academy

A photo of Dr Sun Yat-sen

Classrooms

This is the first military academy, for training military officials. It produced many prestigious commanders who fought in many of China’s conflicts in the 20th century.

Dr Sun Yat-sen first established it in 1924.  There were courses to train infantry, artillery, sapper, impediments troops, military policeman, and even politics. Exhibits of certificates of graduates and interviews with old people were displayed.

As we strolled along the President’s room, classrooms, hostel, meeting rooms and canteen, we could see that the buildings were still solid. The simple and sparse decor gave us an idea of strict military training.
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c) 1911 Revolution Memorial Museum

1911 Revolution Memorial Museum

A guide took us on tour of this museum, detailing how the Xinhai Revolution evolved.  In 1911, the Chinese people launched this epoch-making event, under the leadership of Dr Sun Yat-sen. This revolution overthrew the rule of the Qing Dynasty, ended the monarchical despotism which ruled China for 2000 years, and established the Republic of China.

The various exhibits described the many (more than 10) failed anti-Qing uprising by Sun Yat-sen and his revolutionaries, from 1895 to 1911. Overseas Chinese from the neighbouring countries became the most important economic source of domestic revolution. Sun Yat-sen raised funds in Japan, USA, Canada, Britain and Malaya, to finance his Revolution.

Finally, on December 29, 1911, Sun Yat-sen was elected the first provisional president of the Republic of China, and thereafter began the modernisation of China.
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d) Chen Clan Ancestral Hall

Roof with pottery cresting

Brick carving - Liu Qing taming the Fiery Steed

Engraved folding screens of wood carvings

This is an academic temple built by 72 Chen clans in Guangzhou for their  juniors to stay in preparation for the imperial examination in 1894 during the Qing Dynasty. Today, it is the Guangdong Folk Museum, showcasing a variety of folk arts and crafts.

The buildings are decorated with wood carvings, stone carvings, brick carvings, pottery, stucco relief art, iron and copper casting and coloured drawing – the 7 classic decorations of Lingnan Architecture (or Cantonese architecture).

Colourful designs of animals

Designs of animals and fruits

We viewed the delicate works of art with awe. Most of the decorations were of flowers, birds, fruits and scenes of traditional Chinese folklore. 

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e) Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Entrance to Sun Yat-sen  Memorial Hall - Senior citizens
 with identity cards or passports get free entry

Built in 1909 and completed in 1931, Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall is the most picturesque of all the historic buildings on our tour. It was built with funds raised by local and overseas Chinese people in memory of Dr Sun Yat-sen.

Inside the spacious octagonal Memorial Hall

I was amazed by the huge interior. The octagonal hall has a span of 71 m without pillars, a large stage and seating area for 3,240 people. There were photos and exhibits around the hall showcasing Dr Sun Yat-sen’s deeds.



Landscaped garden with creative features like a guitar



Landscaped garden with Bronze statue of
Dr Sun Yat-sen in a striking pose

The exterior was unique too. A golden oval globe was on top and a horizontal inscribed board with four Chinese words (which translate to “the whole world is as one community” a quoted by Dr Sun Yat-sen) in the middle of the building.

The garden has a beautiful guitar-shaped sculpture as well as a Bronze statue of  Dr Sun Yat-sen in a striking pose.

This Memorial Hall is a fitting tribute to commemorate and honour Dr Sun Yat-sen for his contribution to China. 
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f) Dongguan - Opium War Museum


Entrance of Opium War Museum

The Preface

 While entering the museum in Dongguan, the preface sent a shiver down my spine. “Ferocious smoke fills up the sky... evil opium spreads throughout China” it said. Opium was used as medicine for over 600 years (from Tang to Ming Dynasty), but later it became a drug that dehumanised many Chinese addicts.

Statues (above) and a photo(below) show Lin Zexu directing
 the burning of the opium



In the 18th century, western countries led by Britain expanded trade with China using opium as a bargaining tool. Before long, opium became a serious social problem.

In 1839, led by Lin Zexu, the Chinese people publicly destroyed 1.15 million  kg of opium on the beach of Humen; this event is known as Opium Burning Pool. That was the beginning of a long and arduous anti-opium conflict of the Chinese against the British.

A chart showing the impact of opium
chemicals on the human body

At another section, I found the description of the opium poppy flower (Papaver somniferum), pretty interesting. The flower came in 3 colours: red, white and purple. Its principal ingredients are morphine, codeine, noscapine and thebaine ,which can have harmful effects on the human body when consumed in excess.
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Our 9-day holiday was a very informative one. This trip gave me an insight into the struggles of the Chinese people during the 19th and 20th centuries. 
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A photo essay with 5 photographs on this holiday was published in the Star (Malaysian newspaper) on 9th June 2020. More photos and more details of the trip are added here.