Saturday, 12 December 2015

Ho Chi Minh City 2 : history and culture



Ho chi Minh Square

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), formerly called Saigon, is a vibrant city with historical insights and fascinating culture. My husband and I were there for a few days and we felt the pulse of the city after visits to HCM Square, Mekong Delta, Cu Chi tunnels, Independence Palace, War Remnants Museum and Ben Thanh Market. 

We stayed in Palace Hotel: an ideal location, for it was within walking distance to historical sites, shopping places and tour agencies. 
Ho Chi Minh Square

The Ho Chi Minh Square was right in front of our hotel. A few policemen were always on duty and I felt a sense of freedom and calmness every time I walked along the huge expanse of land, which was devoid of vehicles. We met tourists from many parts of the world (like Julia and Carla from Germany). Tourists like to take photos with the iconic statue of Ho Chi Minh.

Ho Chi Minh Square, with Julia and Carla from Germany
Ho Chi Minh was the soul of the revolution and of Vietnamese struggle for independence. His qualities of simplicity, integrity and determination were widely admired. In his honour, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1975.

The other end of the Square was reserved for a fountain. One night, I was delighted to see a musical multi-coloured fountain there. This thrilled not only tourists but the local young people and children. 

                                    A musical fountain


Mekong Delta

We visited Mekong Delta together with a friend, Elizabeth, from Ivory Coast, Africa. Our tour leader and guide, Hung, picked all 30 of us from various agencies and hotels. The journey by bus to the Delta took two hours.

On the way, we stopped at a Buddhist Temple to view a gigantic Sleeping Buddha (Nam Mo Bon Su Thich Ca Mau Ni Phat) and a Laughing Buddha (Nam Mo Duong Lai Di Lac Ton Phat). 

A Sleeping Buddha

A Laughing Buddha, with Elizabeth

Our tour group comprises people from all parts of the globe: Thailand, Malaysia, Germany, Spain, Africa, England, Puerto Rico, France, Canada, England and Vietnam too.

On the bus, Hung briefed us: “River Mekong flows through six countries, from China, to Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and ending in the Delta in Vietnam”, he informed. “It is the 12th longest river in the world and the 7th longest in Asia. You will get a glimpse of the history and diverse cultures of the region”. 

At the Delta, we boarded a boat which cruised along the Mekong River. Hung pointed out four islands: Unicorn, Phoenix, Turtle and Dragon in the distance. However, our one-day trip included visits to only Turtle and Dragon Island.

On the boat, with other tourists from other
parts of the world

 On Turtle Island, we tasted honey served with banana chips and nuts; honey tinged with a whiff of whisky, as well as five types of tropical fruits. Hung allowed some members to hold a tray teeming with bees. He also invited some members to touch and feel a life python. These activities highlight the local products of the island.

Five types of tropical fruits

One member holding a tray teeming with bees

Marc and his friend (both from Spain) bravely handling
the python

The most enjoyable part of the trip was a cruise on a little boat (sampan) along mangrove vegetation. Four of us got on to the boat and two local Vietnamese women, one in front and one behind, did the rowing. With arms of steel, they rowed with dexterity and speed. We passed other tourists along the shady mangroves with nary a scratch on each other’s boat.  This was a great experience to see mangrove vegetation at such close range!

Our Vietnamese rower with arms of steel

                                          A ride through the mangroves

Life for villagers in the area revolves around the rivers and canals that make up the delta. People go by river rather than by road for transport. What a simple life these people live, yet from the smile on our woman rower's face, I could tell that she was not complaining. 

After the invigorating ride, Hung took us to see how coconut husks were removed by a spear-like metal rod - a quick and easy method. After watching workers make coconut candy, some of us bought the candy, flavoured with chocolate, durian and peanuts.

Stalls selling coconut candies

Our last stop was on Dragon Island, where we had a simple lunch of rice, meat, fried spring roll, long beans and a vegetable soup . “If you want more exotic food, like grilled turkey, fish, eel, worm, chicken or snake, you have to pay for it,” pointed out Hung. 

“You can rent a bike and cycle round the resort, watch crocodiles or just laze around. At 2.45 pm, meet me near the hotel, where our boat will take us back”, Hung nonchalantly told us.


Hung briefing us

A simple lunch of rice with meat, vegetables and soup
A side dish of fried fish


Left on our own, the 3 of us walked around the island. That day happened to be a holiday for school children, and many of them were frolicking in the landscaped playground, with hedges pruned like animals. I enjoyed looking at the animal topiary.

School children frolicking in the landscaped garden

Animal topiary

Nearer the seashore, I was charmed by other forms of topiary like sheltered huts which were hot favourites for couples; and dragon topiary which was very realistic and significant as the island is called Dragon Island.

Sheltered huts for couples

Dragon topiary

I spied a 12-year old boy kissing a local elephant-eared fish in an aquarium. The good-natured boy, Huen, chatted with me in surprisingly good English. He gladly posed for a picture with Elizabeth, amidst the teasing of his classmates.


Huen kissing an elephant-eared fish


Elizabeth with Huen

 At the crocodile enclosure, I was amused to see a boy teasing a crocodile with a prawn - every time the crocodile opened its mouth, he raised the bait higher. Poor crocodile!


Many of the souvenir shops displayed tropical fruits (like coconut, durian, rambutan, mangosteen) and clothes like the irresistible Vietnamese ao dai

Children's ao dai

The trip gave us an enriching insight into the life of the Mekong Delta people.

Cu Chi tunnels
 
Our one-day trip to Cu Chi Tunnels started with a bus ride that took about three hours from our hotel.  

On the way, we stopped at a factory which made lacquer handicraft as a cottage industry. Vietnamese lacquerware is sought after by collectors for its beauty and durability. 

Vietnamese lacquerware 

A girl in charge elaborated the whole lacquer process. "Lacquer is a natural varnish mined from the rhus tree resin. Some pieces are layered with 10 to 15 coats of lacquer. Before a second coat of lacquer can be applied, the previous coat must dry for one week before it is sanded. Lacquerware are completely made by hand and each is a unique piece" she said.

Starting from a plain block of wood, a lacquer artist applies several layers of varying colours of varnish over inlays that are made of different materials like as egg shells, sea shells or mother-of-pearl.

A finished product

The Cu Chi Tunnels were ranked as a national relic in April 29, 1979. They have a unique architectural structure: a system of deep underground tunnels with several floors and alleys and branches like a spider web more than 250 km long, with places for dining, living, meeting and fighting.

Our tour guide, Mr T, was a jovial veteran. He spoke good English which pleased our group of 28 members from different parts of the world. He knew the tunnels like the back of his hands, giving in-depth accounts of the Vietcong's escape strategies in the Vietnam War.
  
We followed Mr T eagerly into the jungle. Our first exposure to the tunnel was at a site filled with dry leaves. Beneath the pile of dry leaves was a cover that led to the tunnel beneath. Volunteers lifted the cover, slid into the narrow tube and closed the cover after them. They discovered that it was an ingenious camouflage of the entrance. 

Mr T explaining the camouflage

A volunteer lowers herself in the hole

Volunteer covers the hole with dried leaves

Volunteer climbs out, happy with the
new experience

                                         Another volunteer getting out of the hole

Mr T then showed us other entrances - bigger, of different shapes and sizes, and always spicing up each place with intriguing tales.
Other exhibits included booby traps which were filled with sharp spears or barb wires within. All these gave us glimpses of how soldiers endured pain and suffering during wartime. 
 
A square entrance


Rectangle opening

Round opening



Booby trap with sharp spears


After seeing all the different traps and hearing spooky tales, it was a relief when Mr T took us to a resting place for tea. We tasted the local cassava root (tapioca) that sustained Vietcong guerrilla fighters for years during the Vietnam War. Imagine eating that every day and living underground for years - what a melancholy life!

Tasting local cassava root

Close up of cassava root

After tea, we moved on to an open enclosure where a big tank with a shooting gun was displayed. Many soldiers were taking photos with the huge war weapon. Mr T dared volunteers to try their hand at pulling the shooting gun down. He was surprised that a few of our members (Malaysians) were able to do it. However when I tried to pull it, it did not even budge! 

A big tank with my husband and other soldiers 

                                    Aizat, a Malaysian, raising the shooting gun

There were also made-made models showing how the Vietcong made weapons for warfare. 



Other models were female Vietcong in uniforms. It was photo opportunity time again.

Malaysians with Vietcong model

With a female Vietcong model

The trip would not be complete without walking inside the tunnel. Mr T explained what we needed to do before we went for "the walk". "Hold your bags in front of you and bend down so your head don't touch the top," he advised. 

The entrance

All of us braced ourselves for the experience. We walked along a short tunnel which was about three feet high and two feet wide. We walked in a "crouched or squat manner", in single file along the tunnel and although it lasted about 10 minutes, it seemed like 30 minutes to me! Although it was dark and eerie inside, little lamps lighted the way at certain places. Was I glad when we arrived at the other end! Whew! What a dark world the Vietcong endured! 

The exit

All too soon, it was time to go back. We did not have time to watch a short introductory documentary, but the Cu Chi Tunnels experience was a great eye-opener.


A short introductory documentary was shown here


The Independence Palace

The Independence Palace (now called Reunification Palace) was designed by architect Ngo Viet Thu. It is a harmonious combination of wind, water and sunlight and it reflects the Eastern traditional philosophy and Vietnamese national characters.

In front of the Independence Palace


It was declared a national, cultural and historical monument in 1976. The design of the whole building was unique - the architect used symbolic concepts derived from Eastern philosophy.

Quoted here the symbolic concepts :

 "The building's overall structural plan is a rendering of the ancient ideogram 
'ji' meaning good fortune. The front elevation's opening 'kou' symbolises truthful speech. The placing of the flagstaf  'zhong' symbolises unswerving fidelity. Three horizontal strokes illustrated by the roofing, facade and canopy 'san' symbolises the mystical triad: humanity, wisdom and firmness of purpose. The three strokes united by a vertical line with the flag situated above, forms a character 'zhu' signifying the power of the head of state. The lines along the facade 'xing' signify prosperity."

I was impressed by the spaciousness of the rooms and the grand design of the interior decor. Many important events are held in the Palace, like conferences and receptions of Vietnamese and foreign enterprises. It has luxurious rooms that can hold 100-500 people with a first class restaurant that can cater to 1000 guests. 



We viewed some of the rooms on the various floors, communication bunkers in the basement as well as a replica helicopter on the roof. Outside were some tanks (like 843) which led the final assault through the Palace gate on 30th April 1975. All these exhibits gave us glimpses of the War the Vietnamese fought against their enemies. 






War Remnants Museum

In front of War Remnants Museum

Opened in Sept 4th 1975, the War Remnants Museum is a war museum, specialized in research, collecting, preserving and exhibiting the remnant proof of Vietnam War and their consequences.  Owned by the Vietnam Government, it is viewed by about 500,000 visitors per year (2009), attracting not only foreigners but Vietnamese too.

We walked through the series of themed rooms in some buildings, with period military equipment and viewed some of the artillery and armour collection exhibited outside the Museum. 






The exhibition was compelling, showing the horrors of war. Some photos portrayed how cruel war can be, especially to children, old folks and pregnant women. I was sad and aghast at some of the graphic photography, covering the effects of Agent Orange and other chemical sprays. Tears flowed continuously. I could not continue watching...it was too depressing.

The exhibits create awareness to the public on the disastrous effects war brings.  Hopefully, through these exhibits, we can say "no" to war.

Ben Thanh Market

In front of Ben Thanh Market

Ben Thanh Market  is a shopper’s paradise. Everything under the sun can be bought there: handicraft, textiles, ao dai, souvenirs and local cuisine. There were even stalls selling Malaysian clothings (like kebaya, sarong, tudung and telekung). Near the Market, there were restaurants serving halal food.

A shopper's paradise

Although it was hot and humid inside, you get good deals if you can bargain. I bought some clothes, nuts and artichoke tea for family and friends
Food

HCMC has a wide array of food for tourists. We like the local Pho (Vietnamese noodles) with its tangy soup, garnished with lime and basil, accompanied by either beef balls, beef meat, seafood or chicken. 

Pho, with beef balls

Pho, with seafood

Spring rolls, fried or with raw salad, dipped in chilli, salty or sweet dips are great. I like the local dumpling which has minced meat and dried vegetables as filling. The wide variety of vegetables (some as salad) were healthy and refreshing too.  

Vietnamese spring rolls

Vietnamese dumplings

We found the traditional Vietnamese Coffee excellent. It is prepared using a silver filter with the coffee dripping into a cup below. 

The city

HCMC is a city with many interesting places to visit. Traffic is very busy in the mornings and evenings and transport is mostly by motorcycles.
With the short time we had in HCMC, we managed to cover some interesting sites, getting deep insights into the history and culture of the people.

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