CENTRAL ASIA 1: Uzbekistan - a country of ancient cities

Route map of Central Asia             Map: Choo Kok Wai

Uzbekistan is a country of outstanding architectural wonders, mesmerising history, fascinating culture and unique food.

After a memorable Silk Road adventure to Xinjiang in 2010, my fellow travellers were eager for another adventure. Choo Kok Wai, organizer and tour leader, chose Central Asia (CA). We concentrated on Uzbekistan, Krgyzstan and Kazakhstan.

CA fascinates because in ancient times, these were countries along the Silk Road. The countries in CA are new, having become independent in 1991. Each country in this region has its own identity, history and architecture. Previously ruled by Persia, Greece, Arabia, and lastly by Russia, the influences from the past have resulted in a vibrant culture.

We set off on our CA holiday in May 2012. There were 33 of us. From Kuala Lumpur, we first took a flight to Tashkent, capital of Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan is a land-locked country. It has borders with all of the other 4 Stans of CA as well as Afghanistan.

As a country of ancient cities, Uzbekistan was the main transit route of the Great Silk Road. Touring these countries was an eye-opener for me. During my schooldays in the 1960s, I had never heard of them in History or Geography lessons. Visiting them was like a discovery adventure for me.

Our first night in Tashkent, at Miran International Hotel was unforgettable. Abdullah, our manager cum guide (who was also our manager on our Silk Road Adventure), welcomed us. We had a sumptuous dinner at Sim Sim Restaurant. The dessert, baklava, had us all drooling with delight. It was the best baklava I have ever tasted.

Best baklava tasted

Uzbekistan’s 3 cities: Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand have been called the oldest cities in the world. Next morning, we flew to Urgench, right at the start of CA’s Silk Road, and Khiva

KHIVA

Our local guide was Takhir. In Khiva, we first visited Itchan Kala, a walled ancient city built over a span of 600 years. It became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1990.

Outside the walled city of Itchan Kala

People still live within the city walls and we found inside it, minarets, madrassahs (religious schools) and mosques. They were well-preserved examples of the Muslim architecture of CA.

The weather was hot and dry. Many of us carried umbrellas or wore hats for protection. As we walked along the streets together, we could feel an air of festivity around us. Vendors all around us were selling trinkets, clothing and souvenirs. There was even a local wedding to add to the colourful atmosphere. I found that the most outstanding buildings were the madrassah and minaret of Islam Hoja. 

Minaret and Madrassah of Islam Hoja Mosque

The local people, fair, brown-eyed and black-haired, were very friendly. The womenfolk wore modern colourful dresses. They were as curious about us as we were about them. The adults and their lovable children were eager have their pictures taken with us.

With local women in modern colourful dresses

Cute children - eager to have their pictures taken

On our first night in Khiva, we had an open-air dinner in Itchan Kala, under the Islam Hoja Minaret. 

Open air dinner under Islam Hoja Minaret

It happened to be my husband's birthday. Abdullah presented him a colourful Uzbek cap and a birthday cake with a "fireworks" candle.

Birthday boy with fireworks candle

We savoured local dishes while big bosom ladies in glittery costumes, entertained us to Uzbek dance and music. To add to the sizzling atmosphere, the dancers invited us to join them. It was a gay and marvellous start to our CA holiday.

Big bosom lead dancer

Birthday boy dancing with lead dancer

Sizzling atmosphere: members dancing with locals

Next morning, my husband and I went back to visit Itchan Kala on our own. It was quieter and cooler compared to the day before. We saw some locals harvesting mulberry fruits. A man had climbed up the tree and was shaking it, while below the tree; a few women were collecting the fruits with an outstretched cloth. What a novel way of harvesting mulberry fruits. After our lunch of green noodles (speciality of Khiva), which I found quite bland, we were off to visit the historical ruins of Khiva: Topraq and Ayaz ruins. Green noodles - speciality of Khiva

 Topraq and Ayaz Qala ruins were ancient Khorezm settlements, about 2500 - 3000 years old. Visiting these ruins gave us an idea of ancient civilizations in CA. We visited Topraq Qala first. It is rectangular in shape with ruins of palace, towers, temples and brick walls.

Topraq Qala ruins

Topraq Qala: members listening to Takhir

We ladies had to tread carefully as we clambered up and down the sandy soil slopes, holding on to each other for support. 

Ladies holding on to each other 

Topraq Qala ruins was also a popular site for Uzbek students who came in bus-loads with their teachers on a study trip.

School children on a field trip

The whole area was dry and dusty because of low rainfall and high temperature. Vegetation was sparse and shrubs that grew were short and thorny. I was intrigued by unusual flora growing on the dry and arid environment and some fauna (gecko and arachnid) hiding in the soil.

Unique plants growing in the arid and dry environment

After a tiring climb up and down Topraq Qala, I was too exhausted to visit Ayaz Qala. So I stayed back with some other members. While resting near our bus, we met some young Uzbek backpackers, who had cycled to these ruins from Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. 

Uzbek cyclists

Back in Urgench, we had an authentic Uzbek dinner in a yurt in Ulli Hovli village, a 17th century fortress.

A yurt in Ulli Hovli village

As we entered the village, many of us were excited to find an ancient pump that pumped out water from underground by pressing on a lever. We queued up to wash our hands like little kids who had found a new toy.

Queuing up to wash hands

I watched with interest local women preparing naan bread - kneading the dough and baking it in huge earthen ovens. Walking around the village, we watched other workers at the stove,  preparing our dinner. 

Making the dough for the naan bread

Putting bread into huge earthen oven

Huge earthen ovens

Finally, seated comfortably inside a yurt – we had a delicious Uzbek meal (mutton soup,

rice pilaf and naan bread) that was prepared right before our eyes.

An Uzbek dinner inside a yurt

Rice pilaf

Mutton soup

Naan bread

To save a day, we took a night train to Bukhara. It was pretty comfortable and many of us slept well. We arrived in Bukhara next morning, with everyone in high spirits.

BUKHARA

Ladies - bright and cheerful

Guys in high spirits

Bukhara, located on the ancient Silk Road, was a centre of trade, scholarship, culture and religion for five millennia. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it was famous for its many mosques and madrassahs. Bukhara's architecture and archaeological sites form one of the pillars of CA's History and Art.

We went for lunch in a restaurant with a rustic Russian setting. A Russian lady played music on a violin. Before long, five local ladies started dancing. They invited us to join them. Soon, all of us were on the floor, dancing with the locals like they were our long lost friends. It was an impromptu dance party!

A Russian lady playing on the violin

A dance party- Malaysians with locals

With our stomachs full and our spirits high, our group was ready to explore Bukhara. First visit was Poi Kalyan Complex, made up of Kalyan Mosque, Kalyan Minaret and Mir-i Arab Madrassah.

Built in 1127, the Kalyan Minaret, used as a beacon and watchtower, was the tallest building in CA. Its 14 ornamental bands, all different, included the first use of glazed blue tiles. I noticed that many of the buildings were dazzling blue in colour, whether it was the dome, minaret or roof. All these buildings have been lovingly restored to their original grandeur with UNESCO assistance.

Kalyan Mosque and Minaret

The Mir-i Arab Madrasah was CA's only functioning madrassah in Soviet times. Presently, young men from Uzbekistan study Arabic, the Quran and Islamic law in the Kalyan Mosque while the Madrassah is used as dormitories.

Miri-Arab Madrassah

Many of the historical sites were near each other and within walking distance. We walked to view other monuments: Labi Hauz with Bolo-Hauz Mosque, Chor Minor and Nodir Devon Begi Madrassah.

Labi Hauz means "by the pond". After touring many places in the hot sun, I found this place by the pond with surrounding mulberry trees, cooling and relaxing. It was crowded with tourists and street sellers. The Bolo-Hauz Mosque, built in 1712, facing the pond, was impressive, with its elegant colourful wooden columns, ornamental floral patterns and artistic ceiling. It stood out from the other mosques in the area.

Labi Hauz with Bolo Hauz Mosque in front

Bolo-Hauz Mosque with elegant colourful wooden columns

Bolo Hauz Mosque with artistic ceiling

Bolo Hauz Mosque with lovely patterned walls

Hoja Nasrudin's statue nearby was a hot favourite for our photo enthusiasts. Considered a populist philosopher and wise man, he is remembered for his funny stories and anecdotes. He appears in thousands of stories, as a witty, wise, or a "wise fool".

With local children and Hoja Nasruddin statue

The Nodir Devon Begi Madrasah nearby, built as a caravan serai, was converted into an educational madrassah in 1630 AD. We were surprised to find that creatures (birds and animals) and the sun with a human face were drawn on its façade.

  Nodir Devon Begi Madrassah with its unusual facade 

Chor Minor Mosque's most significant feature was the 4 identical blue minarets looming tall against the blue sky. They represented the 4 ruling dynasties of Bukhara (Samanids, Sheybanids, Karahanids and Mangits). Between the minarets was the big dome - the symbol of sky and the single God. Ladies in front of Chor Minor Mosque Our members were more interested in Chor Minor Mosque’s courtyard. There were mulberry trees, lovely flowers and souvenirs on sale nearby. Members started plucking the mulberry fruits from the trees and consuming them with relish - sweet and juicy. They did not mind getting their fingers stained purple! Members plucking fresh mulberry fruits

Around the mosques and madrassahs, there were small shops selling a variety of high quality merchandise. These caught our ladies’ interest: ceramic ware, fancy-shaped knives and stork scissors, old-fashioned pocket watches, semi-precious stones, embroidered items and all types of metal ware fashioned by creative blacksmiths.

ceramic ware

Old fashioned pocket watches

Fancy shaped knives and stork scissors

Semi-precious stones

Embroidered items

Metal ware

Our bus then took us to another site. As we walked towards the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, we passed a big playground. There were many school groups with teachers walking by. The children, with sun-caps, looked happy and carefree. They kept staring at us in a curious manner.

Happy and carefree children

Children staring at us with curiosity

Among the mausoleums that we visited, the Ismail Samani Mausoleum stood out. Built in the 10th century, it houses the tombs of Ismail Samani, his father and his grandsons. A cubic building covered spherical dome, it is assembled from burnt square bricks arranged vertically, horizontally or obliquely. Its delicate baked terracotta brickwork changes in colour as the sun rise and set through the day.

Our group in front of Ismail Samani Mausoleum  Photo: Lai Hee Cheng Inside Ismail Samani Mausoleum Central Asia is famous for its magnificent carpets and Bukhara is well-known for its exquisite handmade rugs and carpets. At a carpet shop, we came face to face with the gorgeous colours and designs of Bukhara’s carpets. We saw first-hand how carpets were woven, especially by young girls who were as pretty as the carpets they were weaving. Exquisite rugs and carpets Pretty girl weaving a carpet

Lunch was a meaty affair. We had an Uzbek lunch in a garden with lovely roses as setting: barbecued chicken, beef and mutton kebab, samosa (somsa) and baklava dessert again...yummy!

Lunch in a rose garden

mutton kebab

Samosa

Barbecued chicken

After lunch and before dinner, our time was free and easy. Some of us took a walk and we came across the sole remaining Jewish synagogue. It was heartening to see the Jewish community coming together for prayers and studies of the Torah.

In a Jewish Synagogue

That evening, we had dinner together with a fashion show, right inside Nodir Devon Begi Madrassah. The fashion show and traditional dancing (to promote Uzbek's cotton industry) were of a high standard. The stunning models wore striking modern Uzbek couture.

Dinner in Nodir Devon Begi Madrrassah

Traditional dance

Traditional dance

Modern couture

Modern couture

The next day, our coach took us to Samarkand. We made a detour to Shakhrisabz, the birth place of Emir Timur (also known as Tamerlane). Timur was a prominent military commander and outstanding statesman in the 14th century. He is the national hero of Uzbekistan. Takhir told us many tales of this great Emir Timur.

We visited Ak Saray Palace, his summer palace which covered an area the size of an Olympic stadium. The Palace took a quarter of a century to build but sad to say, it was not completed when he died.

The incomplete Ak Saray Palace

Emir Timur statue - with local girls

Lunch in a family restaurant was lip-smacking lamb kebabs and noodles. The kebab was cooked like our Malaysian "satay". You can smell the aroma of the kebab as you watch the cook at his stove. The meal was delicious at every bite.

Noodles in lamb soup

Lamb kebab

The cook at his charcoal stove

SAMARKAND

After a satisfactory meal, we were off to Samarkand. Founded in 700 years BC, Samarkand is called 'The Gem of the East'. Conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BC, it became the key trading centre on the Silk Road between China and the Mediterranean. After conquests by Persians, Greeks and Arabs, it became the centre of Muslim culture. The majority of the architectural monuments in Samarkand were built by Emir Timur and his descendants.

The "must-see" places in Samarkand were the Registan Square, Guri Amir Mausoleum and Bibi Khanym mosque.

 Registan Square, the administrative, trade and handicraft centre, is the heart of old Samarkand and a symbol of modern Samarkand. It is surrounded by 3 majestic madrassahs: Ulugbek's Madrassah, Sher Dor Madrassah and Tillya-Kari Madrassah, all built in the 1400s to 1660s.

Our group at Registan Square   Photo: Lai Hee Cheng

Tillya-Kari means "gold-covered". The whole interior of the Tillya Kari Madrassah was glittering and glimmering. It was actually gilded ornamentation. It was jaw-dropping magnificence.

Interior of Tillya-Kari gilded ornamentation

Tillya-Kari - dome with gilded painting

Takhir took us inside Sher-Dor Madrasah. He introduced us to his Uzbek friend, Babul who had a wide variety of Uzbek musical instruments. Babul patiently explained and played on some of these beautiful instruments. Both of them played an entertaining duet for us. It was our first exposure to traditional musical instruments.

Takhir (left) and Babul playing on Uzbek musical instruments

Guri Amir Mausoleum is a notable tourist site. It is the tomb of Emir Timur, his two sons and grandsons, including Ulugbek (Timur's most famous grandson). Its beautiful fluted azure dome and the exquisitely decorated interior (of the finest stones like jade, and precious ornaments) had us gazing wide-eyed with appreciation. 

Guri Amir Mausoleum - with friendly locals

The beautiful fluted dome

Tombs of Emir Timur, his sons and grandsons      Photo: Lai Hee Cheng

Uzbekistan dazzles with its beautiful monuments, but nothing can be as appealing as its people. They are the friendliest people in a foreign country that I have ever met. Everywhere we went, friendly Uzbeks greeted us and they unabashedly wanted to pose with us in front of Uzbekistan’s iconic places.  They gave us their biggest smiles, with some displaying gold-capped teeth, a common sight in Uzbekistan.

With handsome young men

With white haired aunties

With pretty young girls

With cheerful women, one with gold-capped (2nd from left) teeth

It was not all mosques and madrassahs. We also learnt of the ancient Uzbeks in Science and Astronomy. Mirzo Ulugbek was more interested in the stars in the universe than conquering the earth. In 1420, he built the best equipped Ulugbek Observatory, one of the finest observatories in the Islam World. Inside it we found a gigantic sextant (an instrument used for measuring the sun's altitude).

Ulubek Observatory

Mirzo Ulubek statue

Outside the Madrassah, a monument of 5 Scientists, in honour of the 600th anniversary of Mirzo Ulugbek (Emir Timur's astronomer and scientist grandson), caught my attention. It was a modern sculpture in a traditional setting by sculptor T. Esanov.

Monument of 5 scientists

Uzbekistan is CA's most populous country with 90% of its people Muslims. After seeing so many Islamic buildings, we found a Russian orthodox church in the Jewish quarter of Samarkand. It was a leftover from Russian rule.

A Russian Orthodox church

Interior of church still in use

To know more about the history of Samarkand, we headed for the Afrosiab Museum, where exhibits ranged from murals, excavated artifacts to crockery and coins.

Afrosiab Museum

Knowing our ladies’ keen eye for shopping, Takhir took us to Aisha's Silk Workshop. There, the boss showed us how silk was made. After that, we became totally immersed in the display of handmade silk scarves, hats, jackets and embroidery material. The cosy shop was set within a lovely well-designed garden. While the ladies browsed through the elegant silk-ware, the guys chatted away in the garden outside.

Browsing through the silk hats and scarves with the boss of the shop (left)

Guys in the tastefully-designed garden

It had been Uzbek food from Day 1. We were glad when Choo arranged for us to have dinner in a Korean restaurant for a change. As for entertainment, we had not one but two Russian belly dancers.

We sat out on the veranda where the air was cooler as we would soon be hot (either from the spicy food or the sensuous dancing). Everyone was smiling - Korean food and sexy dancing.

We were seated in the veranda 

Two belly dancers    Photo: Lai Hee Cheng

Next day, we visited the Bazaar, near BiBi Khanum Mosque. Its wet and dry market was huge and expansive. There was a colourful array of vegetables, meat, groceries at different sections and everything and anything could be found there. And it was clean and well organised – very Russian in nature! Many of us made a beeline for the dried fruits and nuts section (apricots, figs, dates etc) and a few of us bought kilos of dried fruits and nuts for home.

Bazaar in Samarkand

Colourful array of vegetables

Our last stop in Samarkand was Shahi-Zinda, which means "Tomb of the living King". The Shahi-Zinda Ensemble, a necropolis, includes mausoleum and other ritual buildings of 9 - 14th and 19th centuries. When viewed from outside and inside, the mausoleums were quite picturesque, all with intricate tile designs. Most of the mausoleums house Emir Timur and Ulugbeks' family and their favourites.  

Shahi-Zinda Complex: graveyards and mausoleums

Interior of one mausoleum

Dome of another mausoleum

Inside an octagonal mausoleum :tomb with tiled mosaic walls

Picturesque exterior of one mausoleum

TASHKENT

After touring Samarkand, we headed back to Tashkent.  We went for a dinner and show in Hotel Bahor. The restaurant had an old style Russian-like decor.

Our 4-course European dinner, with wine and vodka, plus live entertainment, was a change from the usual Uzbek food we had in the ancient towns.

In a restaurant in Hotel Bahor

Meat

Cheese and walnut

Fish and onion rings

Yoghurt

On stage, beautiful girls in colourful Western-orientated costumes danced a mixture of ballet, jazz and other dances from many countries. 

Dancers in colourful costumes

Dancers in Western-orientated costumes

Dancers danced a mixture of dances

Next morning, we were introduced to our new tour guide, Bibi. Bibi took us to see Tashkent’s main tourist sites.  

Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s largest city, has evolved from a small ancient settlement to CA’s largest city and its main transportation hub. It is different from the other cities we have visited. It has a combination of medieval buildings, elegant European architecture, standard concrete ‘boxes’ of the Soviet era and glittering skyscrapers of glass and concrete. 

The Khas Imam Complex is a religious centre where Muslim relics were collected. It is made up of Tillya Sheikh Mosque of the 19th century, Barak Khan Madrassah of the 16th Century and Khaffal Shashi Mausoleum.

Tillya Sheikh Mosque

The Barak Khan Madrassah is special as it is the headquarters for the grand Mufti (who is equivalent to the "archbishop", for the Stans countries). The oldest reputed Quran of the world - Osman Koran, is also kept in the Madrassah!

Barak Khan Madrassah

Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum

Chorsu bazaar is a "must-visit" bazaar. In ancient times, it was a big trading place along the Silk Road. The bazaar is the oldest and largest bazaar in Tashkent. Huge, noisy and busy, it had plenty of farm produce, fruits, vegetables and spices. As usual, we bought some spices there for home use.

Most of us liked the Kukeldash Madrassah. It has a baked brick structure - great architecture that blends well with greenery in its beautiful courtyard. Built as an Islamic seminary, it served as a local government building during the revolution. It has a domed courtyard that was a favourite with all of us.

Beautiful garden in courtyard of Kukeldash Madrassah

Our last dinner in Tashkent was in Jumanji - a cosy restaurant with fusion cuisine, a blend of oriental and European dishes. It was a fitting finale to a wonderful holiday in Uzbekistan.

Jumanji restaurant with Bibi (far left)

Uzbekistan is unlike any other country I have ever visited. As a non-Muslim, I was apprehensive about whether I would be able to relate to its history. At the end of this trip, I came away with a better perspective of its splendid monuments, interesting culture, delicious food and most of all, the friendliest people on earth.

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