Monday, 28 May 2018

Captivating Chiangmai and Chiangrai, Thailand

A White Temple in Chiangrai, Thailand


A White Temple! In front of me was a snow-white, one-of-a-kind Buddhist temple. I was in Chiangrai, Thailand, with members of Klang Convent OGA (Old Girls Association), on a 5-day holiday.

On January16, 2018, OGA members had a fun-filled holiday in Chiangmai and Chiangrai. 33 of us had arrived in Chiangmai with tour guide, Teri. Thai tour guide, Jacky, welcomed us and  immediately took us by bus to Chiangrai for a 2 day-holiday there. We returned to Chiangmai for a 3-day holiday.

The 5-day holiday was packed with scenic sights, thrilling rides, insightful cultural visits and jolly shopping sprees.

Day 1: CHIANGRAI

On the way to Chiangrai, we travelled along old Chiangmai, passing through  remnants of the city wall and moat of the ancient Lanna Kingdom.

Old wall and moat in old city Chiangmai

Thaweesin Hotspring

Enroute to Chiangrai, we stopped in Thaweesin Hotspring. Some members bravely dipped their weary feet in the hot pool, while others sampled freshly boiled eggs, fresh fruits and snacks on sale there.


Thaweesin Hotspring 

Members having a healthy dip in the hotspring

Eggs in baskets attached by bamboo poles being boiled in the hot spring

Eggs and meat cooked over hot fire

A temple near the Hotspring, with Hindu influence
We stopped for an appetising Northern Thai lunch. Photos below show members enjoying the meal:


Northern Thai dishes - a delicious introduction to Thailand





White Temple/Wat Rong Khun


In Chiangrai, we visited the White Temple, built and funded by artist-painter-architect and millionaire Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat. He wanted to build the most beautiful temple in the world, to show the glory of modern Thai Buddhist Art.

He used white because he wanted it to be different from other temples which are golden. "The Lord Buddha represents purity (white) and the use of small mirrors throughout the building is a symbol of  Lord Buddha's wisdom (Dharma) that shines throughout the Universe," said Chalermchai, in a White Temple booklet.

He continued, “I want to build a heavenly garden (representing happiness) for humans to stroll in. I want all visitors of whatever religion to have a feeling of peace, happiness and at the same time get to understand the meaning of Buddhism that can be seen all over the temple, whether it’s in the architecture, drawings or molding works.”

Construction began in 1996 and still continues. Eventually, there will be 9 buildings on the grounds when the site is completed in 2070.

We first visited the Main Temple. As we crossed the bridge (Cycle of Rebirth), I was shocked to see the moat filled with outreaching arms which represent desire. Among the outstretched hands were monsters and horrible creatures being pulled into the pits of hell by thousands of hands. Urghhh!

We queued up and took off our shoes (we were given a paper bag for our shoes) to enter the main temple, lugging our shoes along.It was quiet and sombre inside, a place for meditation.  No photos were allowed to be taken inside.
  
After the short visit to the Main Temple, we walked around the buildings and the  surroundings. Besides religious ornaments, there were dragons and mythical creatures, unique statues and even quirky creations  like skulls, demon heads, and pop-cultural figures from the underworld, all symbolic of the Buddha’s teachings and Buddhist philosophy (like good against evil).

The golden temple-like building is the toilet. It represents the body and is in stark contrast to the White Temple which represents the mind. It is said to be the most beautiful public restroom in the world. It was clean and odourless when I used one of the rooms.


The glistening White Temple is reflected in a pond



The artistic and attractive White Temple

Everyone wants a picture with the iconic temple


Hands reaching out: signifying the way to happiness
 is through overcoming cravings, desire
or greed for material things

Jubilant members: their colourful clothes contrast well
 against the white temple



Golden Toilet 1 (Restroom) - represents the body, the material world





Creative and symbolic arches

Quirky heads hanging from trees




The Kinnaree - half man, half bird:
 creature form Buddhist mythology

Audrey with a model of  artist
Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat

Dinnertime - more mouth-watering Thai dishes.


Salad
Tomyam





Squid-spring onion

Day 2: CHIANGRAI

After a hearty breakfast, we were off to the hills for a village visit.

Seafood with noodles
Assortment of appetizers


Bread with name of hotel:Grand Vista
Grilled chicken
 Hill Tribes

We visited the Union of Hill Tribe Village. It has 5 different hill tribes: Ahka, Lu Mien, Palong Long Neck (or Karen Long Neck), Lahu and Kayor.

We walked through the different tribal villages, participated in cultural dances and shopped at their handmade products stalls - their only way to earn an income.

Photos below show our excitement and activities with the hill tribes:


The different hill tribes





Sisters Kala and Kamala: hand-to-hand, treading carefully
 on the uneven rough terrain
Our group taking a break for a photo shoot: trekking up and down
 the slopes of the hill tribes can be tiring for senior citizens


Members participating in local log dance







With room-mate, Melinda

The most interesting hill tribe was the Karen Long Neck. The womenfolk had long necks because they wore 2 ½ kg spiral brass coils when young. Having a long neck is considered beautiful.

 I was sad to see the young girls with the heavy coils around their necks as they weaved scarves, smiled for tourists or tended to their stalls. The coils were really heavy when I tried wearing one.


With a young girl: heavy brass coils on her neck and
yellow powder on er cheeks and nose
Tried the coils: they ARE  heavy!



Weight of  the brass coils for the neck


Girl cheerfully weaving 
Girl sitting pretty and looking like a doll



Everyone wants a photo with the the girl with the "golden-neck" 

Members shopping for souvenirs
Lots of eye-catching handicrafts for sale:

 



Golden Triangle/Maekong River/Lao Village

From the village, we moved on to the Golden Triangle. This is a place where 3 countries meet: Thailand, Myanmar and Laos. This place was formerly famous for drugs and arms smuggling but today it is a tourist attraction.


Jacky explaining the Golden Triangle

All ready to board the boat at the Pier of the Maekong River
We cruised along the Maekong river, with Myanmar on our left and Laos on our right and China in front. Jacky pointed some big casinos and hotels on both sides of the river. 

The boat that we cruised along
Shopping in Don Sao Island:

After some time of cruising, our boat made a U-turn, and we turned back. We made a stop at Don Sao Island in Laos for an hour - shopping, drinking coconut water or sipping Vietnamese coffee.   




Members enjoying thirst-quenching coconut water

A Golden Buddha : seen from the jetty

Returning to Thailand after the cruise

Maesai Border Market

After lunch, we proceeded to Maesai, the border next to Myanmar. Jacky took us on a walk to the northernmost part of Thailand, just to get a feel of the iconic landmark!

Northern most part of Thailand

MYANMAR (BURMA)

At the Maesai border, our group split into 2: 16 of us were to walk across the border to visit  Myanmar (3 ½ hours) while the rest had another round of shopping at the Maesai Border Market.

The crossing over to Myanmar was simple and easy. We walked in single file across the border, passed the immigration and within minutes, lo and behold, we were in Myanmar!  


As we entered Tachileik town, I found the air dirty and dusty as Myanmar is still undeveloped. Without wasting any time, Jacky got us into 2 taxis (8 in one taxi) and took us to visit 3 temples, each with its individual character and beauty.


Walking across the border
1.     Shwedagon Pagoda Replica – Thachileik

This is a replica of the Shwedagon Pagoda  in Yangoon.  We took off our shoes and entered the sacred site. We knelt down, prayed and made a wish. Different from the temples in Thailand, this one has pictures on the walls depicting apparel of people long ago.

Outside, there was a big stupa in the middle, just like the original. It was still undergoing renovation. Some of us walked round the stupa 3 times, stopping at a few places to pray or to bathe the Buddha.


Entrance of Temple

Inside the temple

The stupa outside the temple
2.   Township Dhammayon – Thachileik

This temple was also undergoing some renovation. What was remarkable was the beautiful intricate decor on roofs and statues.







3.     Phra Jow La Keng - Thachileik

This temple is peaceful and serene, with admirable architecture. Inside the temple, the altar was uniquely illuminated with glittering lights. Outside, a hanging gong gave us some excitement in the otherwise calm environment.





The gong with its handle



Our taxi in front of the temple




After the temples visit, we had a short shopping spree in the Bazaar. Most of us were pleased with our purchases of handbags, DVDs and souvenirs.

Soon it was time to leave Mayanmar. We walked back to Maesai, Thailand, pausing to take a group photo of that memorable visit.


A memorable Myanmar visit

The visits to neighbouring Laos and Myanmar gave me glimpses of how the people live there. I felt a sense of accomplishment, having visited 3 countries in one trip like a 3-in-1 coffee.

From Maesai, we travelled for about 3 hours back to Chiangmai for a late dinner, before checking in to our hotel.

Day 3. CHIANGMAI

Cherry Blossoms in Khun Chang Khian

Early morning, we were off to the high mountains to see cherry blossoms. In groups of about 6, we boarded 4 WD taxis which took us along the narrow and winding road to Khun Chang Khian.


My group of 6 jovial members in the 4 WD taxi
 that jolted us left and right  

The journey was uncomfortable, with many twists and turns. I could feel my insides turning upside down, making me giddy and sick. However, the happy and jovial chatter of my group made the trip bearable.

When we reached the top, rows of rows of pink cherry blossom trees greeted us. What an enchanting sight! It was like a scene from a story book. Everyone squealed with delight.

Cherry blossoms in Chiangmai? Yes, cherry blossoms do flower not only in Japan! The organiser of our trip had timed the visit well – such beautiful blooms in cool Chiangmai! What more could we ask for?

Everyone had a glorious time, capturing memorable shots in various poses. 









 


Looks like I have sprouted a new head






  Doi Suthep


After the euphoric visit, we adjourned to a quieter and sombre place, the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. This is a temple in the mountain Doi Suthep and is often referred to as Doi Suthep. It is a sacred site for the Thai people.

We took a lift up and were amazed by the big crowd there. Although it was a weekday, tourists and locals thronged the various prayer sites.

We saw pagodas, statues, bells, museum and shrines, as well as a model of the Emerald Buddha. There was a big stupa in the centre. Some of us bought flowers and candles and with other devotees, walked around the stupa 3 times, clockwise, to gain merits, before placing the offerings at the required places.


The stupa

Devotees walking round the stupa


With room mate Melinda, in front of Sala Tree
(Buddha was born under a Sala tree) 
Some prayer rooms

Intricately carved wooden pillars and roof  


 Instead of taking the lift down, most of us walked the 309 steps. This gave us the opportunity  to appreciate many outstanding features along the way.



The 309 steps down

Happy faces after reaching the bottom of  the 309 steps 
Our lunch at Holiday Garden Hotel was not Thai cuisine but a buffet-style cuisine. Everyone tucked in the flavoursome dishes, Western and Eastern, especially the curry noodles which reminded us of our home country, Malaysia.

There were 4 Home Industries we had to visit. We started with a Honey and Leather factory, where we were introduced to local products. It was boring but bearable.


We had an early dinner of Thai-Chinese cuisine, so that we could go to the Night Market for shopping.




Night Market Shopping

Our Suri Wong Hotel doors opened out to the night market. We walked along the long street where traders ply their goods and shopped till we dropped, 2 nights in a row, on Day 3 and Day 4.

Chiangmai came alive at night: bright glittery lights, slow-moving noisy vehicles, flourishing eating stalls, beer-drinkers and coffee connoisseurs in side-walk cafes amidst the happy bargaining between traders and tourists.

Walking with my room-mate, my eyes were diverted to some transgender women in their shimmering and sexy night-wear. They looked so pretty - I felt sorry for them.

Besides Malaysians, there were many foreigners from Western countries and also from China. No wonder the traders could speak fluent English and Mandarin!








Pretty and sexy transgender women

Day 4: CHIANGMAI

Elephant Camp

On Day 4, we had great fun in the Elephant Camp.

1.Bamboo-rafting

We boarded bamboo rafts in small groups to experience what a ride on a bamboo raft entailed. Jacky told us not to be afraid on the raft because if we fall in the river, the water was only knee-deep!

With the wind on our cheeks, the sun in our eyes and blue skies above, we cruised along the river without a care in the world. That was relaxing and refreshing!

At certain sections, traders wade up to our raft to sell us drinks and fruits. Some members flexed their muscles and took over the rowing for the experience.

Jacky helping members board the bamboo raft









A member taking over the rowing -
Teri (tour leader), with backpack
 is on the extreme right

 2. Elephant Ride


The elephant ride was something else! Two of us were delegated to one elephant. The elephant walk started along the shallow river, up some steep steps, passed through a narrow path and finally continued journey on the hill slopes before turning back.

 I felt nervous as I alighted on to the elephant’s back and held on to the metal bar for dear life. What if the elephant took a wrong step – this ran through my mind!

Initially, I held my breath, clenched my fist and held on tightly to my backpack. As the elephant scaled the steps, I felt myself slipping on the smooth seat and my heart began to throb faster and louder.

 I could sense the poor elephant’s displeasure with the burden (us) on its back. I told myself that I would not take an elephant ride again.


However, when the elephant reached level ground on the hill slopes, I relaxed and began to enjoy the ride. I thought of the song “Baby Elephant Walk” (written by Henry Mancini), famous in the 1960s, and imagined the elephant moving rhythmically to the music. 

Melinda and I perched precariously on top of the elephant

Ready, get set, start - on shallow waters

Slow and steady -  the elephants plodded along 

The tough climb up the steps

Brave members smiling away with no fears

 3.Elephant Show


This was the best part of the Camp. The trained elephants marched orderly, lined up and did some tricks - lifting a log, dancing, eating a whole bunch of bananas and lifting the mahout on to its back. 

Next they gave us some lessons on football – forward kick, back kick, kick into a goal post – all done to perfection!

And the climax was ... drawing! Did you know that elephants could draw? I did not, and was flabbergasted. Four elephants, each with a drawing board, brush and paints, were actually drawing - something I could not do myself! It was not just a line or a cross – they were actually drawing trees and flowers!

The crowd roared and applauded with joy coupled with amazement. What a fitting finale to the Elephant Show!

The completed works were displayed, auctioned and sold to the highest bidder very quickly.


Elephants with their mahouts all lined up to perform

Video: a back kick by a talented elephant

Elephants can draw!

The completed works of art

To end the day, we visited the other two Home Industries – Precious stones and Thai Silk factory. 

Khantoke Dinner and Cultural Show

After the rip-roaring adventure, we adjourned to a traditional northern Thai Khantoke Dinner plus a Cultural Show, along with other tourists. 

We sat on floor mats at a long low table. Luckily there was a big space below the table for leg space. Dinner was homemade family-style yummy dishes, which were continually replenished.







2 young local girls dressed in traditional costumes
went round to take photos with guests

Home-style yummy dishes





After the show, we had another round of night shopping. Then, while some retired to their hotel rooms, others went to the Hotel discotheque for singing, dancing and drinks as it was our last night in Chiangmai.


Dee Lung singing a hot number with a guest

 Rose and Dee Lung dancing away 

Day 5. CHIANGMAI

It was free and easy on our last day.  We browsed around the shops in the hotel and walked the streets again to do some last minute shopping. It was still early in the morning and the streets were quiet with only a handful of shoppers like us compared to the noisy crowd at night.

Hotel decor: 







Sights along the streets: 


A temple with unusual architecture





With Kala in the quiet market in the morning
Soon, it was time to say goodbye to Chiangmai. This was a holiday with a variety of new experiences for me: a unique White Temple, Long-neck villagers, the elephant and raft-ride and a 3-in-1 countries-visit. 
....................................................................................................................................
I wish to thank the OGA organisers for planning such a great holiday with many new experiences . A big thank you too to all members of the OGA for sharing their photos here. 


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